# Chess, anyone?

Category: Crafts and Hobbies

## Post 1 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Thursday, 14-Jan-2016 0:06:11

Hi all,
So, first off, I wasn't sure if this should go in Game Parlour or Crafts and Hobbies. it's a hobby, and it's a game.
Anyway, I'm a fairly competent chess player, and just wanted to know if there were any zoners who also enjoyed the game.
Pursuant to that, if there's anyone out here who wants to learn, I've taught several people in my day, and it's something I enjoy immensely. I can teach via text, or via skype in a voice chat depending on scheduling and such.
If you're brand new, I can teach you the way the pieces move and get you started on how to play the game effectively;
If you're not a true beginner and want to become a more solid player, I can probably help you there. I go to chess club almost every week, and while I'm not their best player or anything, I can usually give any player there a good challenge.
I loook forward to opportunities like this not only because I can teach others, but because I'm sure some of you may have things to teach me. I'm not going to presume that I'm this site's foremost chess player. I'm many things, but arrogant is definitely not one of them.
So how about it? Reply here, or hit me up if you see me, and I'd love to get in touch.

## Post 2 by forereel (Just posting.) on Thursday, 14-Jan-2016 13:00:16

I use to paly a long time ago.
I'm rusty as all get out.
I'd like to know what sort of board you have?
The one I had was carved wood.
The pieces had pegs in the bottom to keep them from moving so you could feel the board as much as you liked.
The black squares were raised, the white at the same level as the board.
The black squares for some reason were just a darker wood not black, but the pieces were white and black, and felt different.
The white pieces had flat heads.
No points on the crowns. The black pieces had the points, and the ears on the rooks.

## Post 3 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Thursday, 14-Jan-2016 16:57:54

Mine was similar to that. Pieces were identical except the black ones had tiny nails in their tops. My board itself was similar as well. Fairly lightweight, with the lower squares being white and the raised ones being black. I think the way they did it was to make an overlay of the black squares and then glue it atop a pure white board. If you flip the board over, I'm pretty sure it's all white, and it's all one flat piece full of holes. Each piece has a peg in the bottom that fixes it in the hole...though admittedly, my board has been well-used, has travelled a great deal and is wobbly as hell. It's very easy to knock over a piece if you're not careful...which is mostly fine if you know exactly where it went, but not so good if you need to touch the pieces repeatedly for the sake of orientation.

## Post 4 by rat (star trek rules!) on Thursday, 14-Jan-2016 19:18:17

I love to play chess, it's been a very long time since I have found anyone who'd play it though.

## Post 5 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Thursday, 14-Jan-2016 19:40:23

I'm always happy for a game, so long as I can find the time. Usually school is not too demanding, so I can usually justify kicking back playing chess sometimes.

## Post 6 by rat (star trek rules!) on Thursday, 14-Jan-2016 20:47:13

If there were ways I could easily play chess with others online i'd do it.

## Post 7 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Thursday, 14-Jan-2016 22:24:47

Rat, there's one fairly easy way.
If you understand how the notation works, and if you have your own board, then all it takes is a medium of text (skype, email, texting even) where you and your opponent can exchange moves. Although each of you are in different places, if you have your own board you'll just each make both black's and white's moves as you learn them.
If you don't have your own board, there is some accessible chess software that will let you set up a board and input moves as you see them. Look up a program called KChess Elite, as one example; don't let the price tag fool you either, since you can uninstall and reinstall as you wish. I don't know how well-supported that program is anymore, but I used to use it.
This solution will allow you to use your arrow keys to look at the board, but if you require the ability to physically touch a board and map out where stuff is, then the only real alternative is an actual chessboard.

## Post 8 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Thursday, 14-Jan-2016 22:38:40

And while I'm here and its' on my mind, here's a really quick crash course in how algebraic notation works in chess. Don't worry. It's not nearly as ugly as it sounds.
The board is an 8 by 8 grid of alternating white and black squares, with a white square in the bottom-right corner. Players typically sit across from each other.
The board's squares are assigned a letter and number based on white's position. A square's designation never ever changes.
Columns (vertical) are marked by letter, and rows (horizontal) by number. Letters start with A on white's left and end at H on white's far right. Numbers start from 1 on white's back rank, and finish up at 8 on black's back rank.
So, for example, white's queen starts the game on d1. Black's king starts on e8.
So that's how the board's laid out. The pieces are simple.
Rooks are R, knights are N, bishops are B, queens are Q and kings are K.
When you write a move, you just write the name of the piece, then the square it's aimed at.
Examples: Nf3, Bc6, Rd1, Qg8, Kf7
If a pawn is moving, you just mention the square it's moving to.
Examples: e4, c5
The letter x denotes a capture, and is placed between the piece name and the square.
Examples: Nxd6, Bxb8, Qxf1
For pawns in a case like this, the column name is used, since the pawn itself has no designation.
Example: dxc5, fxg7
In those cases, the file (or column) where the pawn started before it made the capture is the pawn's current name. If a pawn on f6 takes something on g7, then takes something on h8 on the next move, the two moves would be fxg7, and then gxh8.
Castling kingside is 0-0, and castling queenside is 0-0-0.
Check is denoted by +, and checkmate by #.
One slightly finicky bit:
Say you have two different pieces of the same type which can both move to the same square. You obviously have to tell us which one moved.
If the pieces are in different files (or columns), then you have to add a column designation.
Example: if you have knights on b1 and f3, they can both move to the square d2. You would have to write either Nfd2, or Nbd2, to tell us which knight was being moved.
For pieces in the same column (rooks are most famous for this, though it occasionally happens to knights as well), you have to determine which piece moves to a given square by designating which row (or rank) it's moving from.
Example: say you have a rook on d7 and a rook on d1, and you want to move one of those rooks to d4. Assuming that moving either rook here would be legal, you'd have to write either R7d4, or R1d4.
Thankfully, you need to know all the ins and outs only if you want to study chess on your own without any active outside help. If you're playing against someone like me who can just ask you which knight you meant too move, then all you really need to know is how the board is laig out. I've known many people who play chess not by the algebraic method, bu by a hybrid, which if it's being spoken out loud, sounds something like, "Okay, moving my knight up to f3", or "bishop takes knight on e7, check".
I'm putting these more involved details here in case anyone who wants them has them handy.

## Post 9 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Tuesday, 19-Jan-2016 18:54:35

So, just a quick update:
KChess Elite is free to install and works even on windows 8.1. It works with both Jaws and NVDA.
Unfortunately, I was wrong about one thing. You can't use the arrow keys to skip around by square like I thought you could. I believe there is a spoonbill version of chess which can doo that.
KChess Elite has various playing strengths and I think Spoonbill is a bit more limited that way.
KChess Elite will ask if you want to unlock or whatever, but I don't think it will force you. If you play with it and suddenly one day it won't open, just uninstall and reinstall.
And now, to a more specific question:
I went to chess club last Friday and two kids (as in, ten-year-olds) played something called the Fried Liver attack on me (don't ask, it's based on an old Italian proverb). It involves a risky knight sacrifice, and the problem is, it's reached by rather sensible-looking play. I'm kinda wondering if any of you have a foolproof system in an Italian opening to avoid it.
The setup is something like this:
1. e4 e5
2. Nf3 Nc6
3. Bc4 Nf6
4
Ng5
The logical move for black here is d5, to simultaneously attack the bishop and the pawn, supported by the knight on f6 and the queen on d8...but if you do it, white takes the pawn, gets recaptured, then white uses the knight to take the f7 pawn forking the queen and rook. This forces the king to take the knight, after which the white queen comes to f3, attacking the king on f7 and the knight on d5 (which is now pinned by the bishop of course). What usually follows is a chase around the board; there seems to be no really sound way to refute this after d5, and am wondering if something else sane would stop this in its tracks. I intensely dislike king hunts before the endgame.

## Post 10 by write away (The Zone's Blunt Object) on Tuesday, 19-Jan-2016 22:45:38

I've always loved the idea of chess and I've always found it intriguing. I've been wanting to learn how to play for years, but self-teaching hasn't worked well for me and unfortunatley, I don't know anyone close to me who can play even the basics. lol. I used to have a beautiful glass chess set but it was shattered in my most recent move. I'd take you up on the offer to teach the game to me at some point if you'd be interested. But I need to get a new set. Any recommendations for a blind-friendly set? Or is it better to use an app or something? I genuinely love the way chess sets look and feel, so I'd love to have another, but I'd prefer to invest in a functional one--as in functional for me as a totally blind player--as opposed to just for its visual or tactual appeal.

## Post 11 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Tuesday, 19-Jan-2016 22:56:48

The RNIB sells a good tactile one made of wood. The black squares are raised while the white squares are lower. The black pieces have tiny nails driven into their tops; they're pointy but not sharp. Each piece has a peg in its bottom, and each square has a hole in its center. The pieces sock into the holes pretty tightly, so you could probably flip the board over and none of the pieces would fall off. This would give you the ability to trace diagonals and straight lines and stuff without fear of scattering all the pieces to hell.
This type of chessboard might be sold elsewhere though. I've seen them in Canada (the braille superstore supposedly sells them but is out of stock)...but the only place I know the type I'm talking about can be found right now is the RNIB. They'd run you about twenty-eight pounds, but they'll last for years so they're a good investment.
All that being said, I would be happy to teach you if and when you get a board. Having a board is definitely best so you have a hands-on approach.

## Post 12 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Tuesday, 19-Jan-2016 22:59:44

That being said, actually, I might be in the market for one of these chess sets, myself. Possibly two. But I don't know about shipping options from the UK. Apparently it can be quite a hassle to get RNIB to ship overseas. My own set is kinda dying a slow death.

## Post 13 by write away (The Zone's Blunt Object) on Tuesday, 19-Jan-2016 22:59:50

Cool. about how big is the board you describe? My glass one was pretty big. I was actually thinking of giving it away because I felt guilty that it was never being used and that it took up so much space in my office room. I guess it gave itself away though and made my pang of guilt go away. haha.

## Post 14 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Tuesday, 19-Jan-2016 23:05:12

Probably about fourteen inches on a side. Maybe just shy of an inch thick. So it's not huge or anything. You can pick this thing up and tuck it under an arm without any issue.
The pieces come in a box, as I recall, but I've always kept mine in a fabric soft-side pencil case I made in eighth grade. It's old and getting just a bit ratty, but at least if I drop it, it's just going to hit the ground, not crack or fly open.

## Post 15 by Reyami (I've broken five thousand! any more awards going?) on Wednesday, 20-Jan-2016 7:36:24

Like others, I am very rusty. I have a chess board and pieces, but no one here who either wants or knows how to play. Notation sounds doable I just have to take the time to learn it.

## Post 16 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Wednesday, 20-Jan-2016 13:16:13

Like I say, it's easier than it might look. Many people see the words "algebraic notation" and go "oh god, algebra". It's just a grid. Heh.
All the info is here now, so practice is probably the best way to go forward.

## Post 17 by Ed_G (Zone BBS is my Life) on Wednesday, 20-Jan-2016 16:44:03

I'm not sure what RNIB currently sell, but blind chess sets used to come in
various sizes and in two styles (known as Staunton and Merrick). Both share
features in common (wooden boards with raised black squares, holes/pegs to
keep the pieces in place, and black/white pieces differentiated by one having a
spike in the top). The difference between the two was which colours had spikes
in the top, and the shapes of some of the pieces varied between the two styles.
Both the uK and US Braille Chess Associations have active email lists so can
probably advise on what is currently available. Both also organise email and
Skype tournaments, as well as traditional over-the-board tournaments.
Greg, I wouldn't worry about heading off the fried liver attack. While the black
king is initially exposed, black has a material advantage and should be able to
dominate the centre of the board, which should count in the middle and end
game. You can work on getting the king behind the queen's side pawns if
you're worried about it.
That said, I did use fried liver to amusing effect in the u-21 Blind World Youth
Chess Championships in Belgium in 1999. Our coach told me about its existence
in the bar the night before the game, and I thought it would enliven a game in
which I was feeling somewhat fuzzy. I won fairly quickly. In case it's of interest,
an extract from an article published in the January 2000 BCA Gazette from
www.braillechess.org.uk is below. It contains the game together with our
coach's annotations and a brief introduction.
In our coaching before the last round, I gave Edward a synopsis of the Fegatello
attack in case the opportunity
arose to play the variation. Admittedly, it requires strong nerves, so I left him
with the final decision whether to
play it. However, he seemed quite taken with the line, the opportunity did arise
and he took it! By the way,
Fegatello is the Italian for a “piece of liver”, presumably implying that the
sacrifice of White’s knight is like a
slice of liver used as a bait in a trap.
E. Green v. H. Wasserbauer.
1 e4 e5
2 Nf3 Nc6
3 Bc4 Nf6
4 Ng5 d5
5 exd5 Nxd5
This move by Black is not approved of by theory. Usual alternatives are Na5 or
b5.
6 Nxf7
This is the extremely complicated Fegatello. Theory considers 6 d4 as solid.
6 (black) Kxf7
7 Qf3+ Ke8
Black’s nerve failed him in venturing Ke6, he had to play Ke6 to hold out any
hope of saving the game.
8 Bxd5 Qd7
9 Nc3 Bc5
10 00 Rf8
11 Qh5+ g6
12 Qe2 Kd8
13 d3 Qf5
14 Be3 Nd4
15 Qd2 Be7
16 Be4 Qg4
17 h3 Qh4
18 Nd5 Be6
19 Nxe7 Qxe7
20 Bg5 Ne2+
21 Kh2 black resigns

## Post 18 by GuitarGuy (Veteran Zoner) on Wednesday, 20-Jan-2016 16:57:19

I love me some chess!
I had a friend who kindly made me a board. The black squares were raised and the white ones lower. There were pegs in the bottom of the pieces. The white pieces were larger than the black ones. Still have it. Want to dust it off and have a game with someone!

## Post 19 by $money (Veteran Zoner) on Monday, 25-Jan-2016 7:52:07

I've been trying to get back into playing chess lately. It's really hard to find someone to play against though, so I mostly use the shredder chess app on my Iphone.

## Post 20 by Shepherdwolf (I've now got the bronze prolific poster award! now going for the silver award!) on Monday, 25-Jan-2016 21:42:44

Hmm...your game is kind of illustrative. Looked like after he played Ke8 he could've held on with more careful play, but he lined his queen and king up on e7 and d8, and with the dark bishop that was pretty much instant death