#af
,! ,nose

,f9,y ,augu/ #f? >riv$1 & ,i f.d myf /&+ at ! base ( ,! ,nose 9 ! cool
damp;s ( predawn4 ,\r mon? ( climb+ adv5tures _h spann$ ! gamut1 f haul+
loads 6f9d+ r\tes up v]tical wa/el&s4 ,climb+ ,el ,capitan wd simply 2 l;g]
& h>d] ?an any?+ we _h d"o4 ,my h&s 7 callus$2 ,i _h lo/ fifte5 p.ds4 ,al?
,i didn't feel "o hundr$ p]c5t prep>$1 ,i 0 ab z r1dy z ,i wd "e be4

,all ( u c>ri$ loads 6! base1 b :5 ! ge> 0 pil$ 9 a h1p1 ,hans ask$ %>ply1
8,":'s ! small haul bag80

8,i ?"\ y _h x 9 yr c>10 ,jeff b>k$ at ,sam4

8,:y wd x 2 9 my c>80 ,sam retort$ %>ply4 8,i _h ! gre5 pack &! ?ree
ropes40

8,": is x80 ,hans's fr ,%ipoopi1 :o 0 "! 6s5d u (f1 took *>ge4

8,on ! por*1 6! "r (! door10 ,hans repli$1 sc[l+4 ,s ,%ipoopi rac$ back d[n
! trail t[>d 8 c> 6retrieve x4

,hans _h sp5t ! previ\s "d c>e;lly mak+ a s*$ule =! climb4 ,x 0 a model (
e6ici5cy3

l1ve cab9 #d3ae

p>k & 2g9 hik+ #e3cb

r1* base #e3ef

f9i% organiz+ ge> #f3jg

la/ climb] (f ! gr.d #f3bb

r1* ,sickle ,l$ge #aj3cg '''

8,look10 ,hans sd1 :ipp+ ! s*$ule f 8 jacket pocket & %ov+ x 9 front (
,sam's & ,jeff's faces4 8,y've ?r[n my :ole s*$ule \ ( :ack4 ,n[ we're go+
6h 6climb twice z fa/ 6get back on "t40

,! plan on ? "d 0 6set five hundr$ feet ( fix$ l9e up 6,sickle ,l$ge & !n
rappel d[n 6sleep on ! gr.d4 8,sleep+ on rock l$ges does n make =! be/
ni<t's sleep4 ,n"e give up "o m ni<t sleep+ on t]ra firma10 ,hans sd4 ,!
next morn+ we wd !n jug ! ropes qkly & h a big h1d />t on ! "d4

,:5 ! la/ p]son left ! gr.d we 7 alr1 z ,hans po9t$ \1 8,?irty-two m9utes &
tw5ty seconds 2h s*$ule40 ,"ey"o 0 feel+ /r;g1 h["e1 & we made up = lo/ "t4
,we ea* l$ a pit*4 ,we 7 mov+ fa/4 ,jeff's pit* 0 a di6icult face climb1 no
crack--j t9y nubs 6claw at & an o3a.nal t9y pocket1 j big 5 6fit "o f+]4
,he fell on ! crux1 b 8 la/ piece ( protec;n held hm1 & he only fell ab
ei<t feet4 ,x a4$ "s excite;t 6! "d4 ,on my l1d ,i aid$ =ty feet up a ?91
fl>$ crack 6an old piton hamm]$ 96a s1m4 ,i clipp$ my rope 6x & !n l[]$ d[n
t5 feet4 ,hans call$ \ f 2l1 8,,ok1 n[ p5dulum yr body 6! "r4 ,y'll h 6pick
up a lot ( spe$4 ,:5 y sw+ z f> "r z y c1 r1* yr "r h& \ = an $ge 9 !
rock40 ,i did :at ,hans sd1 t5tatively walk+ my body 6! "r1 b ! rope kept
pull+ me back4 8,-mit 6x10 ,hans yell$4 8,y're n go+ 6r1* x 0tiptoe+40 ,s1
? "t1 ,i />t$ 0walk+ 9 ! opposite direc;n 6! left4 ,:5 ,i got z f> z ,i cd1
,i l1n$ back "r & 2gan runn+4 ,my legs didn't re,y h m* (a *oice2 !y j tri$
6keep up ) my upp] body1 : 0 alr go+ 9 t direc;n1 l x1 or n4 ,z ,i swung
"r1 ! rope >c$ me up4 8,n[60 ,hans scr1m$1 & my h& slapp$ \1 my f+]tips
graz+ ! %>p $ge 9 ! rock4 ,!n ,i 0 fall+ back & dangl+ once ag4 ,i ?"\ ab t
l"o ru/y piton &! weird1 holl[1 wr5*+ s.d x _h made :5 ,i swung on x4 ,x _h
sat "! =! la/ t5 ye>s tak+ ! full brunt ( fi]ce w9d1 p\r+ ra91 9t5se sun4
,=! la/ t5 m9utes1 ! 5tire mo;tum ( my body _h be5 torqu+ x f e possi#
angle4 ,a hundr$ climb]s pass 0? spot e ye>1 ,i ?"\1 & ea* ( !m rely on t
piton4 ,:at >e ! *.es t fate w *oose ? mo;t 65d xs illu/ri\s c>e]8 ,s ) t 9
m9d1 nd "k+ t "ey"o 0 wat*+ f 2l1 ,i -mitt$ my body 6"o m sw+4 ,if x popp$1
x wd 2 a cle> message t ? climb 0 n m1nt 6be2 9/1d1 ?\<1 my h& swept \ at !
p]fect "t1 & ,i cau<t ! $ge4 ,2y x 0 ! 2g9n+ (a t9y l$ge t ran up & "r 6!
wid] ,sickle ,l$ge4

,on ! gr.d ag we made =! refre%+ wat] (! ,m]c$ ,riv]4 ,9 front ( u walk$ an
,5gli% c\ple t _h -e 6climb ,! ,nose on _! vac,n4 ,!y didn't seem 6be 5joy+
!mvs1 h["e4 ,!y _h made x 6a few pit*es abv ,sickle ,l$ge1 :5 !y _h back$
d[n 9 a ?ick mire ( fru/r,n4 ,! boyfr /orm$ al;g1 ?irty feet 9 front ( 8
girlfr4 ,e few m9utes ! girlfr wd br1k ! sil;e 9 h] ?ick cockney$ a35t4 8,x
wasn't my fault4 ,h[ d y expect me 6use all ^? bla/$ 3trap;ns8 ,y didn't
tell me x wd 2 l t4 ,"s vac,n4 ,i n"e want 6d any?+ l t ag4 ,x's pure
cockamamie1 if y ask me40 ,i trail$ 2h1 eavesdropp+ onto ! "o-sid$ 3v]s,n4
,at l1/ = u1 ,i ?"\1 ! climb _h />t$ ) gd signs f ! m.ta9 gods4

,! next morn+ ,hans sd1 8,j wait1 ! m.ta9 w %[ xs size40 ,:ile ju7+
6,sickle ,l$ge1 ,hans atta*$ a pulley call$ a wall-haul] 6! rock4 ,"? x we
9s]t$ ! rope )! haul bags atta*$4 8,x's too m* tr\# try+ 6haul up bo?
bags10 ,hans sd1 af \r tw5ty-m9ute crank ses.n ) grav;y4 8,? small "o cdn't
wei< m ?an fifty p.ds10 ,hans rem>k$1 z ,i felt a h1vy wei<t 2+ clipp$ 6!
back ( my h>;s & he>d ,hans *uckl+ 2l4 ,i r1liz$ t ,i _h be5 *os5 =! honor
( ju7+ 6,sickle ) "o haul bag :ile ,hans h&l$ ! o!r )! wall-haul]4 ,z ,i
/ru7l$ a few feet up ! rope1 ,i m/ h grum#d1 2c ,i he>d ,hans 3c$e1 8,,ok4
,,ok4 ,maybe x's too h1vy4 ,let me take "s wei<t \ ( x = y40 ,:5 ,i he>d t1
?\<1 ,i felt myf ju7+ z fa/ z ,i cd 6get \ ( 8 r1*4 ,! la/ ?+ ,i want$ 0 =
,hans 6make all[.es = me4 ,z ,i 9*$ upw>d1 my back & calf muscles scr1m$ "u
! obsc5e wei<t4 ,!n ,i he>d ,hans sp1k+ s(tly1 b cle>ly = my b5efit1
8,kill]6 ,he took ! bait40

,:5 ,i 2gan ju7+ )! bag1 ,i'd hang f my asc5d]s exhau/$ af ea* /ep1 b soon
,i got 96a rhy?m4 ,/& up & lock (f left leg1 pull up "r jug1 /& up & lock
(f "r leg1 pull up left jug1 re/4 ,x 2came l a game4 ,:5 ,i yell$ ? back
6,hans1 he /opp$ muscl+ ! rope "? ! wall-haul] l;g 5 6grunt s>ca/ic,y1 8,oh
y1h1 fun40 ,i 0 excit$ :5 ,i r1*$ ,sickle1 f\r hundr$ feet ( ju7+ )a
respecta# load4 ,i n"e want$ 6be a tok5 bl climb]4 ,a m.ta9 0 s* a huge &
awe"s =ce -p>$ 6! m9uscule life (a human1 6h a *.e ( /&+ on top1 we -b9$ \r
/r5g?s & tal5ts 62come a m p[];l =ce ?an we "e cd h be5 z 9dividuals4 ,ea*
( u _h 6make a r1l impact1 :e!r we 7 l1d+1 2lay+1 manag+ ropes1 or haul+
loads4

,:5 we all r1*$ ! l$ge1 ,sam l$ a sec;n )a lot ( loose rock1 :1 if 4plac$1
wd h fall5 directly on \r h1ds4 ,i put my helmet on1 if only 6con my m9d4
,i wasn't worri$ ab my helmet surviv+ a fall+ b\ld]2 x 0 ! s(t /uff "un1? x
t ,i worri$ ab4 ,jeff l$ a sec;n &1 at ! top1 _h 6set up a 8hang+ 2lay40 ,?
m1nt t "! 0 no l$ge at ! spot ": we wd re/1 s all f\r ( u1 plus ! haul
bags1 alm "o ?\s& p.ds ( wei<t1 wd hang free1 susp5d$ ov] ! e>? 0! six
pieces ( ge> he _h plac$ 9 ! crack4 ,:5 we r1*$ hm1 8 voice s.d$ jitt]y z
he told u ! r1son x _h tak5 hm s l;g4 8,i kept ?9k+ ab all \r lives hang+
on my ge>4 ,ev5 ?\< my m9d knew !y 7 bomb]1 ,i kept *eck+ !m & re*eck+ !m1
& !n re*eck+ !m ag40

,!n x 0 my turn 6l1d ,hans's favorite sec;n ( ,! ,nose1 a ?ree-hundr$-foot
v]tical crack call$ ,! ,/ove ,legs4 8,x's ! same wid? all ! way up10 ,hans
sd1 8takes numb] two cams ! :ole way4 ,eats 'em l c&y40 ,a doz5 ( ^! cams
dangl$ f my h>;s4 ,ea* _h a pla/ic /em atta*$ 6a metal h1d t bit 96! rock4
8,& don't =get :at a sacrifice ,i'm mak+ 0n l1d+ ? "o myf10 ,hans f9i%$4 ,x
0 wild hang+ 0my >ms & legs1 : 7 w$g$ 9 ! smoo? su/a9$ crack & !n scurry+
up fifte5 feet hi<]1 until my biceps burn$ & my h&s1 dripp+ ) sw1t1 ?r1t5$
6pop \ (! crack l a s(t-boil$ egg f yr h&4 ,!n ,i wd r1* = "o (! numb]-two
cams hang+ f my ge> sl+ & cram x 96! crack1 pray+ x wd hold ! wei<t ( my
body4 ,halfway up ! pit*1 ,i hung f a cam ) "o >m :ile my o!r frantic,y
scann$ ! back ( my h>;s = my la4]4 ,clipp+ ! la4] 96! cam wd 5a# me 6re/1 &
,i ne$$ "o qkly4 ,i knew ! la4] 0 "!1 "s":1 b my h& fi%$ futilely "? ! jum#
( metal & nylon4 ,my grip on ! cam 2gan 6t+le1 !n gr[ numb4 ,i cdn't feel !
pla/ic /em "u my palm1 & ,i knew x 0 slipp+4 ,my >ms & legs 2gan 6trem# )
exhaus;n1 & /1 no la4]4 ,! rope t trail$ 2l me pass$ "? a cam fifte5 feet
d[n1 s los+ my hold 9 ! crack wd m1n a fall ( at l1/ ?irty-five feet )
rope-/ret*4 ,if t cam didn't hold1 !n ! fall wd 2 m l sev5ty-five feet4 ,?
grim 3sequ;e 0 2g9n+ 6seem proba#1 :5 ,i he>d ,hans's unal>m$ voice call+
up f f> 2l1 8,look at t gripp$ look on 8 face4 ,i love x4 ,pu%+ hm 6his
limit10 & 0his voice1 ,i cd tell he 0 smil+4 8,kill]6 ,pu%+ hm "r 6! $ge4
,look at hm4 ,he's ev5 got ! ,elvis %ake go+40 ,! play;l;s 9 8 voice &!
simple fact t he 0 jok+ at a "t l ?1 mae me reassess ! s]i\s;s ( my
dilemma4 ,i red\#d my grip on ! cam4 ,! "o ?\s& feet ( air 2l me didn't
seem l s* a big d1l anymore4 ,6me1 ,hans 0 say+1 8,no big d1l4 ,we've all
be5 "!4 ,y're ,,ok4 ,"ey?+'s ,,ok4 ,j relax & f9d t damn la4]40 ,! w9d gu/$
ag/ ! rock face1 lift+ me up = j a second1 & t gave me an idea4 ,i r1*$ 9
front ( my body1 & "! x was4 ,! w9d _h bl[n x sideways1 wrapp+ x >.d !
front ( my body4 ,i c>e;lly unclipp$ x f my h>;s1 =c+ myf 6g sl[ & n panic4
,no mistakes n[4 ,i cdn't af=d a mistake4 ,)! la/ traces ( /ay+ p[] dra9+ f
my grip1 ,i clipp$ ! la4] 6! cam & f9,y /ood up4 ,deep br1?4

,t ni<t we /opp$ at ,el ,cap ,t[]s1 a plu% f\r-foot-wide l$ge fifte5 hundr$
feet up4 ,we sat ) \r legs dangl+ ov] ! side1 eat+ fruit cocktail1 *ili1
beef /ew1 & cr1m$ corn1 all f cans t we pass$ >.d4 ,hygi5e 0 n an issue af
t5 h\rs ( climb+4 ,sam po9t$ \ t my h&s 7 black ) grime4 ,we play$ musical
cans1 eat+ f ! "o 9 front ( u until ,hans call$ \1 8,"t10 : m1nt we 7
suppos$ 6pass ! c4 ,if x 0 "s?+ ,i lik$1 ,i'd usu,y try 6scoop "o m spoon;l
z ,sam 0 snat*+ ! c away4 ,i 0 pass$ a c f "s": &1 dipp+ my spoon 9side1 x
cl9k$ ag/ ! bottom4 ,i ev5 lift$ ! c upside-d[n ov] my m\? & b1t ! bottom )
my h&1 b only a few =gott5 k]nels ( corn roll$ \4 8,? "o's empty10 ,i
-pla9$4 8,gimme m9e back40 ,i r1*$ \ t[>d ,jeff & my f+] t\*$ ! side (a c1
b he l1n$ back & lift$ x \ ( my range4 ,i lung$ t[>d ! c1 gra2+ ,jeff's >m
& =c+ x t[>d me4 ,jeff lau<$4 8,all "r1 hey1 no r\<h\s+4 ,t's ! way p get
hurt up "h40

8,y're ! only "o :o's gonna get hurt10 ,i answ]$4 ,!n he h&$ ov] ! c1 & ,i
figur$ ,i _h won my po9t1 until my spoon cl9k$ ag/ ! bottom ag4 8,look1
home *ick51 y snooze1 y lose10 he sd1 exhal+ a l;g bel*4

,"s fifte5 hundr$ feet 2l1 we cd he> tra6ic &! fa9t yell ( an o3a.nal
t\ri/4 ,9 a way1 ^? noises 9t]rupt$ \r sanctu>y4 ,we 7 f> abv ! fray1 & ,i
want$ 6keep x t way4 ,horizont,y1 fifte5 hundr$ feet wd 2 a %ort walk away1
b v]tic,y1 x put u 9 ano!r _w4

,lat] 9 ! ni<t ,ell5 & my dad1 :o _h >riv$ 9 ,yosemite ,valley a week
e>li]1 drove f _! cab9 6,el ,cap ,m1d[s &1 ) *emical gl[ /icks1 p]=m$ a
las] li<t %[ = u4 ,sam describ$ ! li<ts danc+ 9 broad sweep+ >cs acr !
spectacul> rock faces (! valley4 ,= applause1 we flick$ \r h1dlamps on & (f
9 qk su3es.n & scr1m$ z h>d z we cd4 ,ell5 told u lat] t :5 %e look$ up1 x
0 h>d 6imag9e p sitt+ 9 ! sky1 ! li<ts f \r helmets bl5d+ )a million tw9kl+
/>s4

,af ! %[1 :ile ,hans & ,jeff slept1 ,i lay awake 9 my bivy sacks li/5+
6,sam talk4 ,8 voice s.d$ re/.s &a ll sad4 8,x's re,y cool h[ yr dad's alw
"! = y4 ,i'll bet he's / sitt+ d[n "! 9 ! d>k1 look+ up4 ,big ,da4y is !
epitome ( pr\d40 ,my dad _h acquir$ ! nick"n1 ,big ,da4y1 2c ( 8 tire.s "w
2h ! sc5es1 writ+ lrs 6sponsors1 rais+ m"oy1 help+ ) logi/ics1 & dur+ !
adv5ture1 alw f9d+ a way 6*e] f ! sidel9es4 ,& sidel9es w]5't easy 6f9d on
a m.ta94 8,^! climbs we're do+ >e a grt ?+4 ,!y're l ,george ,wa%+ton
cross+ ! ,potomac4 ,we're mak+ hi/ory40 ,sam's voice grew m animat$ & w5t
up an octave4 8,& y "k :at8 ,i'm a "p ( x1 "r "h1 help+ 6make x happ510 & x
seem$ z ?\< ,sam 7 j cat*+ on 6! valid;y ( 8 [n ^ws4 8,:5 ,i see yr dad
fly+ ov] ! summit or *e]+ u up ,he>tbr1k ,hill f base camp or giv+ u a %[ f
! m1d[1 don't get me wr;g1 ,i'm n j1l\s1 b ,i j wi%1 "s"ts1 t my [n "f 0
"!1 t1 maybe1 he knew :at ,i 0 do+40

8,maybe1 yr dad's be5 foll[+ \r climbs on ,,tv10 ,i sd4

8,i don't ?9k s4 ,my dad & ,i hav5't spok5 9 alm t5 ye>s10 ,sam repli$
s(tly4 8,:5 ,i 0 elev51 my "f gave me a rifle4 ,%oot+ at a ll squ>e pap]
t>get 0 ab ! mo/ bor+ ?+ ,i cd possibly imag9e1 b n"e!.s ,i'd g 6! t>get
range e "d4 ,i practic$ until ,i cd %oot ! balls (f a mosquito f a hundr$
y>ds away4 ,i ev5 2came a /ate *ampion1 b x 0 a r>e o3a.n :5 my "f sd ,8gd
job0' or ,8,i'm pr\d ( y40' ,6my dad1 ,i 0 alw ! kid :o cdn't 3c5trate 9
class1 ! kid :o cdn't tell 8 left f "r1 ! screwup1 &1 6hm1 t's :at ,i'll
alw be1 a screwup4 ,9 hi< s*ool1 ,i plac$ second 9 ! :ole ,new ,5gl& 3f];e1
& y "k :at he sd8 ,8,y w]5't 3c5trat+4 ,y %d h hit t "o40' ,s1 ,i r1liz$
,i'd n"e re,y 2 happy do+ "s?+ t ,i didn't love = xs [n sake4 ,t's :5 ,i
/>t$ climb+40

,sam's daily life 0 def9itely a ll unorganiz$4 ,he 0 (t5 runn+ 2h s*$ule &
ju7l+ a doz5 unf9i%$ tasks 9 8 m9d1 b1 ironic,y1 9 ! m.ta9s1 he 0 0f> ! mo/
focus$ p]son ,i _h "e met4 7,x 0 z ?\< ,sam's m9d 7 a *>iot1 hurtl+ al;g1
pull$ 0=ty horses1 all jo/l+ & jockey+ = posi;n4 ,no wond] 9 8 daily life
he wreck$ "s"ts :5 turn+ a corn]4 ,b 9 ! m.ta9s1 :5 ! 3sequ;es cdn't 2
grt]1 he _h f.d a way 6make ! horses move tgr4 ,s9ce ^? f/ few "ds ( tra9+1
,sam _h n"e ag mix$ up 8 lefts & "rs :5 guid+ me & 0 usu,y ! "pn] ,i reli$
on 6talk me "? a tricky piece ( t]ra947

,ev5 :5 x 0 n \ (a s5se ( necess;y or dang]1 ,sam alw made a po9t 6/op 9 !
mid/ (a l;g "d ( climb+ 6describe 6me \r surr.d+s1 z ?\< ! b1uty he wit;s$
ov]fl[$ 8 _s & spill$ \ 96^ws4 ,i _h a h>d "t -preh5d+ ! maje/y (! m.ta9s
2y my imm t\*1 b "? ,sam's eyes1 ,i came close 6grasp+ x3 h[ a gap+
crevasse m]g$ f sky-blue 6deep blue 6black1 h[ ! massive flut$ columns (
ice ne> ,d5ali base camp split ! sky l s]rat$ knife blades1 h[ ! glori\s
sun rose up ov] ! summit ( ,m.t ,ra9i]1 orange & gold & fi]y4 ,sam's ^ws 7
l pa9tbru% /rokes 9 my m9d1 "s descrip;ns delicate & elaborate1 o!rs l>ge1
sweep+1 & color;l4 ,af he f9i%$ 8 descrip;ns1 surpris+ly1 ,i n"e felt l ,i
0 miss+ \ on ! view1 b t ,i 0 gett+ an extra bonus1 a picture (! _w1 spic$
up ) ,sam's wond]1 8 awe1 8 hope1 & giv5 ) fr%ip &) love4 ,i didn't "k h[
6expla9 h[ ,i felt1 s f9,y ,i j sd1 8,sam1 y're no screwup4 ,no "o /&+ on !
top ( ,m.t ,mc,k9ley & ,el ,capitan is a screwup4 ,mo/ p only dr1m :5 !y're
asleep1 b y all[ yrf 6dr1m :5 y're awake4 ,all ( x1 ? :ole grt ?+ we're
do+1 />t$ ) y dr1m+ ab x40

,z we bo? drift$ (f 6sleep1 ,sam sd dr[sily1 8,]ik1 if ,i c't h my [n dad
fly+ ov] \r summits1 !n1 hav+ yr dad "h is ! next be/ ?+40

,9 ! morn+ ,hans sd t we 7 2h s*$ule4 8,0la/ ni<t we %d h made x f\r pit*es
abv 6,dolt ,l$ge40 ,s1 he decid$ 6take ov] ! l1ds4 ,x 0 amaz+ h[ fa/ we w5t
) ,hans at ! helm4 ,he wd fly up a #aej-foot pit* t wd h tak5 ! re/ ( u two
h\rs1 9 fifte5 m9utes4

,! mo/ excite;t (! "d 0 my 8cl1n+ ge>0 "u ,! ,grt ,ro(4 ,! ,grt ,ro( pit*
3si/$ (a l;g trav]se "u ! %ad[ (a huge ?irty-foot ov]hang+ block ( granite4
,hans's ge> protrud$ f a t9y crack t ran acr ! ceil+ (! ro(4 ,mov+ acr x
rem9d$ me ( sw++ 2n ! rungs ( monkey b>s & try+ 6get all ! way acr )\t t\*+
! gr.d4 ,:5 ,i ju7$ up 6ea* piece ( ge>1 ,i f.d x alm impossi# 6pull x f !
crack :ile putt+ my full wei<t on ! rope4 ,i _h 6unclip "o jug1 : 0
psy*ologic,y t]rify+1 & reclip x abv ! piece ,i 0 try+ 6remove4 ,!n ,i'd
wei<t ! la4]1 : n[ hung f ! rope abv ! piece1 & r1* back 6=ce ! piece \4
,:5 x came free ,i'd sw+ "u ! next piece1 r1dy 6jug up & rep1t ! process4
,"s"ts ,i _h 6b\nce up f ! la4]1 tot,y unwei<t+ ! rope =a second :ile
simultane\sly crank+ on ! piece4 ,x 0 q a balanc+ act4

,my "f _h be5 foll[+ \r progress =! la/ ?ree "ds f ,el ,cap ,m1d[s4 ,"?\t !
f/ "d1 he sat 9 ! grass1 hold+ 8 small telescope & cran+ 8 neck1 b z we
climb$ hi<] & hi<] & 8 neck grew /i6] & /i6]1 he *ang$ angles1 & 9/1d1 lay
all "d l;g1 flat on 8 back1 re/+ ! telescope on ! bridge ( 8 nose4 ,notic+
my delay "u ,! ,grt ,ro(1 my dad gra2$ ,hans's fr1 ,%ipoopi1 :o 0 hang+ \
ne>by1 & ask$ =a -;t>y4 ,%ipoopi gra2$ my dad's telescope & pe]$ up at !
ro(4 ,0? "t1 ,ellie1 al;g )a cr[d ( t\ri/s1 ga!r$ >.d4 8,second+ ,! ,grt
,ro( is way sket*i] ?an l1d+ x4 ,i p]son,y "k two climb]s :o gr1s$ 9 t
exact spot he's 9 "r n[4 ,yr ge> gets all tangl$ up1 y lose 3c5tr,n & next
?+ y "k y're tak+ a two-?\s&-foot scr1m]1 de/9,n t]ra firma40 ,look+ >.d =a
reac;n1 ,%ipoopi 0 met )! worri$ face ( my dad &! 9dignant face ( ,ell54
8,oh1 don't worry1 babe10 he sd4 8,he'll h no pro#m4 ,he's bold40 ,b ,ell5
0 alr sl9k+ away 6sit al"o 9 ! grass1 refus+ 6look or li/5 =! re/ (! "d4
,!n my "f turn$ 6! cr[d4 8,t's my son up "!10 he sd1 pride & worry bl5d+
tgr 9 8 expres.n4

8,>5't y afraid80 a l>ge woman 9 a sundress & big floppy hat ask$4

8,sure10 he respond$4 8,especi,y s9ce he's bl40

8,bl80 %e rep1t$1 ang] & a/oni%;t evid5t 9 h] voice4 8,& y let hm d t1 &
y're 8 "f80 ,%e gl.ed up at ! t9y dots hang+ "u ! ro(1 a %u4] pass+ d[n h]
l a wave4 8,let's g1 h"oy10 %e sd curtly z %e gra2$ h] husb&'s >m4 8,i ?9k
we've se5 5\<40 ,z %e *>g$ 6_! p>k$ c>1 h] husb& dra7+ 2h1 / squ9t+ up at !
rock1 my "f mum#d1 8,he al sky dives40

,"u ,! ,grt ,ro( ,i "w$ on "o piece ( ge> = fifte5 m9utes1 try+ "ey?+ &
gr[+ m fru/rat$ ) ea* unsu3ess;l attempt4 ,9 my ne> panic1 ,i />t$ =gett+
h[ all my equip;t "w$4 ,i cdn't rememb] : la4] 0 3nect$ 6: asc5d]4 ,i cdn't
rememb] : foot 6wei<t & : 6unwei<t4 ,i ?9k ,i 0 2g9n+ 6lose x4 ,hans rapp$
d[n s t he 0 ab fifte5 feet 6my "r4 8,swit* yr asc5d]s >.d10 he sd4 8,!
bottom %d 2 on ! top40 ,al? he 0 "r & al? 8 advice 0 help;l1 at ! "t1 ,i /
didn't want any help4 ,i want$ 6solve ! pro#m on my [n4 ,i cd tell ,hans 0
2+ c>e;l n 6help too m*1 2c he knew ultimately cl1n+ ! pit* ( all !
protec;n he _h left 9 ! rock 0 my responsibil;y1 my pro#m1 & ultimately
only ,i cd solve x4 ,f9,y1 ?\<1 ,i got "? x1 clumsily1 9exp]tly1 b at l1/
p]si/5tly4

,:5 we r1*$ a l$ge wide 5 = sleep+1 ! t1m _h be5 climb+ 0h1dlamp = s"eal
h\rs4 ,ev5 \r fe>.s l1d]1 ,hans1 seem$ worn \4 ,sitt+ on ! l$ge af t5 p4m41
,i li/5$ 6,hans & ,jeff fix+ two m pit*es abv u 9 ord] 6save "t 9 ! morn+4
,jeff 0 ! unlucky los] (a /"o-pap]-scissors *all5ge 6see :o wd g up ) ,hans
& fix ! pit*es1 b 2c ^? two 7 do+ ! extra "w1 !y al got ! be/ l$ges =
sleep+4 ,sam & ,i w.d up on a grim ll l$ge1 two feet acr & slop+ (f ! side4
,hans & ,jeff's 0 sli<tly bett]1 two &a half feet wide & slop+ (f ! side4
,i tri$ 6sleep 0turn+ on my side & press+ my body ag/ ! wall1 b ,i kept
slipp+ d[n4 ,i'd wake up1 ! we2+ 3nect+ me 6! wall pull$ taut1 my "r >m &
leg dangl+ (f ! $ge4 ,s1 ,i gave up on sleep+ & 5t]ta9$ myf )a box ( ,tic
,tacs t ,i _h c>ri$ ) me4 ,hans & ,jeff slept tw5ty feet 2l u1 & ,jeff _h
made ! colossal mistake ( fall+ asleep ) 8 m\? op5$4 ,sam rep1t$ly direct$
my ?r[s z ,i tri$ 6l& a ,tic ,tac 9 ,jeff's gap+ m\?4 ,sam wd get a r1d+ on
8 loc,n )a qk %9e (! h1dlamp4 8,hey1 :at ! hell10 ,jeff wd mum#4

8,oh1 j look+ = my ,*ap ,/ick40

8,well1 x a9't d[n "h40 ,z soon z x 0 quiet1 ,i'd />t laun*+ ag4 8,no1 t "o
0 too l;g10 ,sam :isp]$4 8,alm1 y j miss$ 8 >m40 ,i ?9k ,i 3nect$1 2c a few
"ts 9 ! ni<t1 ,jeff woke up ga7+ & gasp+ = air1 ,i'm assum+ )a m9ty fre%
ta/e lodg$ d[n ! back ( 8 ?roat4

,"s"t 9 ! ni<t1 ,i swall[$ my la/ sip ( wat]4 ,:5 we _h >riv$ on ! l$ge1
,hans _h expect$ 6f9d a gallon ( wat]1 : he _h /a%$ on a previ\s climb4 ,b
! bottle 0 no": 6be f.d4 8,\r la/ "d's gonna 2 a dry "o10 ,hans sd angrily4
,i ?"\ ab ! h1t p\r+ (f ! sizzl+ granite &! air t r1*$ close 6a hundr$
degrees 9 ! sun4 ,hans _h f.d an old cru%$ bottle lodg$ deep 9 a crack1 b
:5 he _h dug x \1 pass$ x >.d1 all ( u tak+ a sniff1 we decid$ t go+ ?ir/y
0 a f> bett] op;n4 8,climb]s >e a h>d bun*10 ,hans told u4 8,!y "k y're
runn+ \ ( wat] at ? /age (! game1 s !y l1ve full bottles wait+ = y on
l$ges4 ,! pro#m is1 !y >5't fill$ ) wat]4 ,! liquid has a sli<tly m yell[i%
hue40

,9 ! morn+ ,i 0 v r1dy 6l1ve my ll p]*4 ,only five pit*es rema9$4 ,x 0 alr
hot z we />t$ climb+1 & ,i kept hav+ 6swall[ h>d 6wet my ?roat & m\?4 ,my
p>*$ body 0 (fset1 h["e1 0! k t 0noon my dad1 ,ell51 &! re/ (! gr\p wd 2
>riv+ on top f a n9e-mile hike up ! back side (! ,capta94

,"?\t ! climb1 ,i _h obs]v$ ,hans 9 a v>iety ( /ress;l mo;ts1 b no matt] h[
desp]ate ! situ,n 2came1 ,hans's voice only grew g5tl]4 ,abv ! ,boot
,flake1 ,i rem>k$ 6,hans t ,i _h n"e he>d hm yell at any"o1 ev5 if ! p]son
des]v$ x4 8,i only let nice p 96my life10 he respond$4 8,s ,i don't "e h a
r1son 6yell at any"o40 ,i felt sort ( honor$ t he _h giv5 6u s tru/+ly ( 8
"t &( hmf4 ,he _h let u 96his life s op5ly1 ,i want$ 6live up 6his fai? 9
u4 ,=! re/ (! "d

,i tri$ 6climb h>d]1 move fa/]1 & keep any :9+ 6a b>e m9imum4

,on ! ?ird 6la/ pit* ,i pull$ up onto a small l$ge & ,hans w>n$1 8,be c>e;l
ab :at y grab40 ,:5 ,i /ood up ,hans put my h&s on a huge b\ld] t seem$ 6be
re/+ -pletely free f ! face4 ,x rose up z tall z me & 0 tw5ty "ts h1vi]1
teet]+ on ! $ge4 ,x wd h g"o ov] except =a doz5 pieces ( we2+ hold+ x in4
8,x's j a matt] ( "t10 ,hans sd4 8,let's j hope ? isn't ! "t40

,l1d+ ! ,h>d+ ,ro(1 a =ty-five-degree ov]hang &! la/ h>d pit*1 my h&s &
neck t+l$ z ,i ?"\ (! ?ree ?\s& feet ( air 2n me4 ,:5 ,i got 6! top (! pit*
,i fix$ ! l9e s ,sam cd cl1n x4 ,af he r1*$ me1 he l$ ! v la/ pit*1 numb]
tw5ty-sev51 a mod]ate roll+ slab 6! top4 ,z ,i wait$ = ,sam 6top \1 ,i hung
f ! an*or1 my feet dangl+ limply 9 space1 "u ! lip (! ro(4 ,i cd feel my
wei<t press+ 96my h>;s &! blood dra9+ d[n my legs & pool+ 9 my feet4 ,!
gr.d 0 s f> 2l me1 ! 4t.e seem$ alm unfa?oma#4 ,i 0 s hi< up1 ,i cdn't ev5
he> ! s.ds ( life waft+ up f ! valley floor4 ,if my an*ors snapp$1 ,i
3sid]$ morbidly1 ,i'd fall =a full ?irty seconds 2f hitt+ ! gr.d4 ,x seem$
m fitt+ t ,i 0 hang+ f ! w+ (a plane ?an f ! side (a rock face4 ,"?\t ! la/
f\r "ds \r progress up ! side ( ,el ,cap _h be5 s gradual ,i _h 5 "t
6a3limate 6ea* new 9cre;t ( hei<t2 ,i _h eat51 slept1 & "w$ 9 ? 5viron;t
until x _h 2come my _w4 ,su45ly1 h["e1 ! v5e] ( -=t lift$1 & ,i 0 slamm$ 0!
r1liz,n ( ": ,i was4 ,my he>t sunk 96my belly & my body t+l$ & turn$
liquid1 z if all ! b"o & muscle 7 my/]i\sly remov$4 ,! we2+ 3nect+ me 6!
rock seem$ z delicate z a dry /r& ( grass1 &! metal bolts z s(t & flimsy z
*ew+ gum4 8,!y _c br1k10 ,i told myf firmly4 8,! sy/ems >e redundant3 two
pieces ( we2+ 3nect$ f two pieces ( my h>;s 6two bolt an*ors10 & al? my
r,nal bra9 a3ept$ ! tru? ( ? pr9ciple1 "o-hundr$-trillion twit*+ *romosomes
cri$ \ 9 defi.e4 ,f9,y1 giv+ 9 6impulse1 ,i cri$ al\d1 8,oh1 pl1se ,god1
let ^! bolts hold = j a few m m9utes40 ,i kept recall+ an old ,john ,wayne
movie ,i once saw4 ,wayne &a "y] "* _h /orm$ a hill an tak5 x f !
,japanese4 ,!y /ood at ! top1 pr\dly hold+ ! ,am]ican flag4 8,see60 ,wayne
sd 6his "y fr4 8,yr fe>s 7 all = no?+40 ,t's :5 "o la/ snip] bullet crackl$
"? ! air4

,feel+ ! rope g taut & he>+ ,sam's 8,on 2lay0 seem$ l a gift s5t d[n f
h1v51 & !n ,i 0 scurry+ up ov] ! la/ pit* & he>+ ! *e]s4 ,i cd he> my dad1
8 voice alw ! l\de/1 \r frs f ,,afb1 ! cam]a crews & report]s f local ,,tv
/,ns1 & ev5 ! t1m :o _h climb$ abv u1 :o _h wait$ >.d 6see 8! bl guy40 ,b
,i cdn't he> ! "o p]son ,i want$ 6he> ! mo/4 ,i knew ,i wd h 6li/5 c>e;lly
= h] voice4 ,!n ,i he>d ,ell5 s(tly /ep =w>d4 8,hey1 ,]ik4 ,awe"s job4 ,y
look ?ir/y4 ,h[ 'b\t a ,yoo-,hoo80 ,i hon$ 9 immly on h] voice & wrapp$ my
>ms >.d h]1 nei ( u c>+ ab my five "ds' wor? ( a3umulat$ sw1t & dirt4

,hik+ d[n ! g5tle n9e-mile desc5t on ! back side (! ,capta91 ,i felt m
alive ?an ,i "e _h4 ,ev5 ! h1vy pack full ( metal ge> & ropes didn't bo!r
me4 ,i 0 on solid gr.d4 ,i actu,y f.d myf l1p+ & b.d+ d[n ! rocky trail1
ev5 lau<+ :5 my feet slid \ f "u me & ,i l&$ on my butt 9 a pile ( rocks4
,i h>dly felt x :5 lat]1 :ile *>g+ d[n an old ab&on$ =e/ road1 ,i slamm$ my
%9s 96a fall5 tree1 &! b>k %r$d$ my legs4 ,) blood ooz+ 9 l>ge droplets
96my socks1 ,i hopp$ up onto ! log & d.ed crazily1 /&+ on "o foot & !n !
o!r1 sway+ f side 6side & wav+ my >ms 9 ! air4

,i _h lo/ ei<t m p.ds f my alr bony frame1 &! vi.n ( ri* fatty food pu%$ me
onw>d4 ,! ,iwanni ,grill1 ! only true re/aurant 9 ! valley1 _h alw be5 too
exp5sive = climb+ bums1 b tn 0 a celebr,n4 ,! pro#m 0 t x clos$ at t5 p4m41
& we _h ano!r ?ree h\rs plus a =ty-m9ute drive 6g1 ) b>ely 5 "t 6squ1k in4
,we bolt$ "? ! ,grill's l>ge oak doors fifte5 m9utes 2f clos+1 & ,i 0
surpris$ 6he> a famili> boi/]\s voice boom+ "? ! re/aurant4 ,w>r5 ,h>d+ 0
sitt+ al"o at a ta#1 talk+ acr ! room 6! pass+ waitresses & cooks :o wd
p]iodic,y pop _! h1ds \ (! kit*54 ,! ma@itre d' wd approa* 8 ta# ) r"e;e &
ask1 8,c ,i get y any?+ else1 ,mr4 ,h>d+80 ,black & :ite pictures ( ,w>r5
putt+ up impossi#-look+ f/ asc5ts 7 pla/]$ all ov] ! walls4 ,w>r5 0 !
resid5t h]o 9 ! valley4 ,we ask$ hm 6jo9 u & le>n$ t he _h driv5 ! ?ree
h\rs f 8 home on ! (f *.e t we mi<t %[ up4 8,h[ did y "k80 ,i ask$4

8,x's ! ne>e/ re/aurant 6! ,capta94 ,i _h a hun*40

,i cdn't ?9k (a bett] 5d+ ?an %>+ a be] )! man :o _h d"o ! f/ asc5t ( ,!
,nose ov] ?irty ye>s 2f4 ,sitt+ ov] a colossal d9n] ( prime rib1 bak$
potato h1p$ ) s\r cr1m & butt]1 salad1 *eesecake1 & five root be]s1 ,i
turn$ 6,w>r5 & sd1 8,?anks = -+4 ,i'm honor$40 ,i cd feel 8 9t5se />e & sat
awkw>dly wait+ = hm 6sp1k4 ,!n1 unexpect$ly1 he blurt$ \1 8,y son (a bit*10
&a jolt ( anxiety %ot up my sp9e4 ,oh no1 ,i ?"\1 he's mad at me4 ,p]h
angry t a r\te tak+ a ye> \ ( 8 life & 8 v he>t & s\l 6-plete1 a r\te t 9 8
"d 0 deem$ ! h>de/ "e d"o1 0 n[ climb$ 0a bl guy4 ,p]h he felt t 8 life's
"w _h be5 reduc$ 6a lau<a# scale4 8,y son (a bit*10 he rep1t$ & ? "t he
r1*$ \1 gra2$ my %\ld]s1 & %ook me r\<ly4 ,i didn't "k :at 6d1 s ,i did
no?+1 j sat "! /upidly1 my h1d bo2+ back & =?4 8,y son (a bit*60 he sd =!
?ird "t4 8,y did x60 ,!n1 ) relief1 ,i "u/ood4 ,he wasn't angry2 he 0 pr\d1
& ,i regrett$ n 2+ a# 6see 8 grizzl$ face4 ,b ,i cd he> 8 husky voice1
b>ely abv a :isp]1 8,y son (a bit*4 ,y did x40
