#ab
,z]o ,z]o

,f9,y ! "d >riv$4 ,i 0 tir$ ( tra9+1 tir$ ( do+ 9t]views4 ,at l1/ on !
m.ta9 we wd h pl5ty ( un9t]rupt$ "t 6focus on "o simple goal3 r1*+ ! top4
,b at ! same "t1 ! "d ( de"pure 0 "o (! sa4e/ ( my life1 2c x 0 al ! "d ,i
wd say gd-bye 6,wiz>d4 ,wiz>d's retire;t 0 well "td4 ,9 fact1 he probably
%d h retir$ a ye> e>li]1 b ,i _hn't be5 r1dy 6let hm g f my life4 ,j l p1
dogs' bodies ev5tu,y br1k d[n too4 ,z ,wiz>d pass$ age elev51 ,ell5 wat*$ 8
muzzle g gray1 & ,i notic$ my once fa/-pac$1 tire.s -panion n[ ho2l+ al;g1
b>ely a# 6keep up4 ,wiz>d's bla4] _h rev]t$ back 6xs "ds ( puppyhood1 2c he
wd /op & pee 9 ! mi4le (! sidewalk1 9 a cr[d ( p$e/rians1 or 9 front (
families eat+ lun* at an \tdoor caf@e4 ,9 class1 9 ! mi4le (a lesson1 ,wiz
wd :imp] & ,i'd ru% hm \tside1 n>r[ly avoid+ an a3id5t4 ,:5 ,i t\*$ 8 coat1
x _h dull$ & lo/ xs smoo?;s1 b n"o ( t wd h matt]$1 except =! fact t ,i ?"\
x 0 "t = ,wiz 65joy a c>efree life1 no responsibilities4 ,orig9,y ,i want$
6keep ,wiz z a pet1 b ,fidelco _h w>n$ t ? wd 2 too /ress;l on ,wiz z he
wat*$ a "y] dog take 8 place z my guide4 ,s1 my bro!r ,$di _h (f]$ 6take
hm4 ,$di liv$ 9 ,p5sacola1 ,florida1 on s"eal acres1 )a riv] &a dock 2h 8
h\se4 ,wiz lov$ 6swim4 ,9 8 "y] "ds1 we sp5t _m ,satur"d afns play+ fet* 9
! ,*>les ,riv]4 ,i'd ?r[ a t5nis ball 96! riv] & ,wiz1 9 supreme a?letic
/yle1 wd spr9t d[n ! dock1 l1p (f ! $ge1 & swim back 6%ore1 ! ball lock$
pr\dly 9 8 jaws4 ,i imag9$ ,wiz1 l1p+ (f my bro!r's dock1 & 8 m9d 2liev+ he
0 "y once ag4 ,he wd f9,y 2 a# 6fill hmf ) z m* ta# food z 8 belly cd h&le3
/1k b"os1 pork *ops1 & apple pie "u ! ta#4 ,he cd run & sniff & b>k 6his
he>t's 3t5t4 ,he cd f9,y j 2 a dog4

,9 front ( \r gate1 ,i knelt d[n 9 front ( ,wiz4 ,he 0 n"e a lovey-dovey
dog1 alw pref]r+ 6play fet* or wre/le 9 ! grass1 b ? "t1 ,i put my >ms >.d
hm & lay my *eek ag/ his4 8,"eybody gets old10 ,ellie sd1 re/+ h] h& on my
back4 8,x'll happ5 6y & me "s"d40

8,i "k10 ,i sd1 cat*+ my br1?1 my te>s dropp+ onto ,wiz>d's fur1 8b x
doesn't make x any easi]40 ,= elev5 ye>s1 ,wiz>d _h giv5 me 8 life1 2g9n+
:5 ,i 0 only sixte51 & he _h be5 a big "p ( op5+ up a _w ( opportun;y = me4
,"! 0 absolutely no?+ ,i cd say or d t wd 2 5 6?ank hm4 ,"?\t \r :ole "t
tgr1 ,wiz 0 3/antly ba6l+ me ab ! ext5t ( 8 aw>e;s1 "o m9ute runn+ me
squ>ely 96a tree bran* &1 ! next1 f9d+ ! "r 5tr.eway 6a doctor's (fice 6:
we _h n"e be5 2f4 ,i cd n"e tot,y predict :at he knew1 :at he s5s$1 b ) my
>ms >.d hm1 ,i hop$ he cd s5se h[ m* ,i lov$ hm4 ,i al wond]$ if ,wiz cd
s5se t "s?+ 0 *ang+4 ,if s1 he gave no 9dic,n1 b j pant$ 9 ! hot1 ,june
w1!r4 ,x 0 bett] t he didn't "k4 ,let hm live 9 9noc;e & happi;s1 ,i pray$4
,i knew if ,wiz 0 a human1 he wdn't 2 "o = l;g syrupy gd-byes1 s ,i made
myf /& up & ru6l$ 8 e>s ) my h&4 8,gd-bye1 bu4y4 ,h fun 9 ,florida4 ,don't
eat too m* /1k40 ,!n ,i kiss$ ,ellie1 told h] h[ m* ,i'd miss h]1 & h1d$
d[n ! jetway4 ,wiz & ,i wd n"e see ea* o!r ag1 2c1 sadly1 he di$ only six
mon?s lat] (a massive /roke1 b ,i c only hope t 9 ^? la/ six mon?s ( b.d.s
freedom1 he liv$ a life"t1 & t ! /roke 0 caus$1 9 "p1 f "o too _m l1ps 96!
riv] f ! 5d ( my bro!r's dock4


,my t1m & ,i flew 96,an*orage & drove nor? 6a small runway 9 ,talkeetna1 ":
we load$ a ?\s& p.ds ( ge> 96a /ripp$-\ ,cessna4 ,we taxi$ 0a wreck$ plane1
/uck 9 a dit*4 ,x look$ l a d1d bird ) xs w+s knock$ (f4 ,\r pilot1 ,d\g
,geet+1 sd ! pilot (! old plane _h tri$ 6l& on ! runway ) 8 glaci] skis /
d[n4 ,*ang+ f skis 6:eels is n automatic & :5 l&+ on pave;t1 "s"ts pilots
=get 6make ! *angeov]4 ,? 0 n ! sort ( place t wd easily =give mistakes1 ,i
?"\4 ,i wd ne$ 6rememb] t :5 we dropp$ onto ! ,kahiltna ,glaci]4

,t5 m9utes lat] we 7 (f1 so>+ ov] ! ,alaska ,range1 squeez$ 2t ov]/u6$
packs & sl$s4 ,! ro> (! plane vibrat$ my body4 ,x 0 an un/a# feel+ z !
plane bump$ & dropp$ %>ply 9 sync )! air curr5ts4 8,go+ "? ,"o ,%ot ,pass10
! pilot w>n$1 &! plane turn$ sideways4 ,five hundr$ p.ds ( ge> squa%$ me
ag/ ! door4 ,a l[-grade fe> lay 9 ! pit ( my belly1 l ,i _h eat5 t5 p.ds (
d\<4 ,i knew ! feel+ well4 ,x _h be5 ) me 9 ! lock] room 2f a big wre/l+
mat* & at ! top ( my driveway :ile catapult+ my bike t[>d ! orange blur (a
ramp 9 ! hazy 4t.e4

,! pilot cut ! 5g9e & we 7 blanket$ 9 a weird sil;e4 ,!n ! plane 0 b\nc+ up
! ?irty-degree sn[ slope1 5g9es revv+ ag z ! pilot :ipp$ ! plane 96a
#ahj-degree turn1 prep>+ x =! next take(f4 ,=! second "t he cut ! 5g9e & we
7 /4 8,al"r1 let's unload ? pig40 ,*ris ,morris1 \r husky-voic$ ,alaskan
guide1 0 alr sw++ op5 ! door & h1v+ bags 96! sn[4 ,immly "ey"o erupt$
96ac;n1 dra7+ \ ge> & %uttl+ x 6\r t5t site4 ,ryan %[$ hmf 6be a mule1 z he
haul$ imm5se piles ( ge> #bjj y>ds acr ! glaci] 6\r campsite1 dropp$ x (f
&1 )\t pause1 rac$ back = ano!r load4 ,my t9y load seem$ pa!tic 9 scale
6,ryan's z ,i foll[$ ,jeff 6camp4 ,*ris 0 alr at "w1 %ovel+ a flat space =!
f/ t5t4 ,i approa*$ hm resolutely4 ,i _h prep>$ a ll spee* 6set ! "r t"o =!
climb4 8,*ris10 ,i sd1 8j 2c ,i'm bl1 ,i don't want y 6give me less "w or
6tr1t me any di6]5tly f ! o!r t1m memb]s4 ,:5 "!'s "w 6be d"o1 ,i want 6be
"r 9 "!40

8,wdn't dr1m ( %ort*ang9' ya10 he repli$ briskly1 slapp+ ! %ovel 9 my h&4
8,/>t di7+40 ,z ,i h1v$ pile af pile ( h1vy wet sn[ ov] my %\ld]1 my back
alr 2g9n+ 6cramp1 ,i wond]$ if ,i _h spok5 a ll too eag]ly4 ,maybe ,i %d h
wait$ 6see h[ ?+s play$ \4 ,maybe ,i %d h kept my big m\? %ut4

,i 0 sitt+ on a block ( ice soak+ 9 ! crisp glaci] air1 :5 ,ryan jo9$ me4
8,psy*$ 6be "h80 ,i ask$1 slapp+ my h& on ,ryan's knee4

8,? is all ,i've ?"\ ab =! la/ ei<t mon?s10 he repli$4

8,i'm glad y're "h10 ,i sd4

8,]ik10 he sd1 look+ \ ov] ! ,alaska ,range1 8? has be5 my dr1m1 "e s9ce ,i
c rememb]1 6be sitt+ "r "h 9 ! mo/ b1uti;l place on ! e>?4 ,i'm feel+ s
/r;g1 ,i feel l ,i cd c>ry u all up "!4 ,i want 6be ! an*or ( ? t1m40 ,i
knew ,ryan m1nt x & ,i felt -=t$ 0his ^ws & 8 pas.n4

,\r f/ ni<t on ! m.ta9 2gan om9\sly4 ,! tranquil;y (! m.ta9 0 3/antly 2+
9t]rupt$ 0! :irl ( ,*9ook helicopt]s ov]h1d4 ,two situ,ns 7 desp]ately
unfold+ on ! upp] m.ta94 ,a pair ( ,spani% climb]s _h fall5 :ile attempt+
6desc5d ! ,ori5t ,express1 a /eep *ute at ei<te5 ?\s& feet4 ,! rope 3nect+
!m _h luckily gott5 sna7$ on a rock4 ,"o climb] 0 alr d1d f ! fall &! o!r
dangl$ help.sly1 ! w>m? ( 8 9jur$ body qkly 4sipat+ 9 ! brutal >ctic ni<t4
,hi<] up1 a two-p]son ,taiwanese "py _h 2come trapp$ on ! ,football ,field1
a flat expos$ sn[field 2l ! summit1 0hi< w9d & :ite\t 3di;ns4 ,)\t a t5t !y
_h hu4l$ tgr1 ! "o climb] / 3sci\s frantic,y call+ \ = help on 8 two-way
radio4 ,2f ! ni<t 5d$1 "o ,taiwanese wd 2 d1d1 ! o!r's life sav$ 0!
hi<e/-altitude helicopt] rescue 9 hi/ory4

,! next "d1 on \r f/ c>ry1 load$ d[n ) sixty-p.d packs & fifty-p.d sl$s1 we
rop$ up 96two t1ms1 & ,i us$ ! travel+ sy/em ,i _h develop$ on \r tra9+
climbs4 ,) multiple lay]s ov] my e>s &)! /1dy w9d t swept acr ! glaci]1 ,i
wdn't alw 2 a# 6foll[ ! climb] 9 front ( me 0! crun* ( 8 boots4 ,b s9ce we
7 3/antly rop$ tgr 2c ( crevasse dang]1 ,i 0 a# 6foll[ 0loop+ ! rope >.d my
h& & cr1t+ j 5 t5.n 6s5se ! direc;n ( move;t4 ,:ile my rope t1m ( ,*ris at
! l1d1 me 9 ! mi4le1 & ,sam 2h toil$ up ,ski ,hill1 ,i 0 a3us$ ( putt+ a ll
too m* t5.n on ! rope4 ,i felt ! rope g slack & ,*ris1 9 l1d1 scr1m$ \1
8,boys1 ,i'm haul+ tuna40 ,i cd feel 8 eyes burn+ 96me1 s ,i sd ! mo/
logical ?+ t came 6m9d4 8,x's n me40 ,i tri$ 6look falsely a3us$4 8,x's
hm10 po9t+ back at ,sam4 ,b f !n on ! ^w .tuna 0 9delibly burn$ 96my *e/ z
a rem9d] ( my sl[ pace4 ,:5"e we'd 2g9 a /eep climb1 ,i'd scr1m \ 6,*ris1
8,get yr fi%+ boots on4 ,y've got "s tuna 6haul40

,)! rope loop$ >.d my wri/1 bo? h&s 7 free 6use my trekk+ poles or ice ax1
dep5d+ on ! /eep;s (! t]ra94 ,x is important t climb]s /ay precisely 2h !
l1d]1 /epp+ directly 9 8 boot holes1 6m9imize ! risk ( /epp+ "? an unte/$
sn[ bridge 96a hi45 crevasse4 ,i scann$ ! trail )a trekk+ pole1 feel+
,*ris's boot m>ks1 & 0l1n+ on my second pole1 g5tly l[]$ my foot 96x4 ,i
tri$ 6get 96his bra91 96his rhy?m1 s t my /eps wd automatic,y mat* his4 ,=
h\rs1 ,i'd feel my feet slid+ 96t>get af t>get4 ,!n1 ! 4t.e 2t /eps or !
angle (! footpr9t wd *ange1 & x wd take me t5 m9utes 6figure \ ! new /ride4
,i wond]$ if ,*ris1 :o usu,y l$1 0 j gett+ bor$ & decid$ 6make bo? \r lives
m 9t]e/+4

,-+ \ ( my t5t at ei<t ?\s& feet on \r fif? "d on ! m.ta91 ,i cd he> ,*ris
& ,ryan sp1k+ 9 :isp]s1 ! t"o ( _! 3v]s,n def9itely s]i\s4 ,approa*+1 ,i
he>d ,*ris ask+1 8,y didn't sleep at all80

8,no1 n =! la/ two ni<ts10 ,ryan answ]$ huskily4 8,i feel l my he>t's gonna
explode \ ( my *e/40

8,h y "e _h ? 2f80 ,*ris ask$1 8 ,,emt tra9+ kick+ in4

8,yes1 :5 ,i 0 a ll kid4 ,i _h a l1ky he>t valve4 ,i took m$ic,n =a :ile1 b
x's be5 s l;g1 ,i'd alm =gott5 ab x40

8,? a9't a place 6be mess9' >.d ) l1ky he>t valves10 ,*ris sd4

8,i "k4 ,if x wasn't s]i\s1 ,i n"e wd h sd any?+4 ,h"o/ly1 ,i'm a ll sc>$40

8,y've gotta g d[n10 ,*ris sd1 & ,ryan knew t ? 0 no?+ he wd say li<tly4
,*ris knew z we all did h[ important ? climb 0 6,ryan4

8,i "k10 ,ryan f9,y sd1 8 voice crack+ z he f"\ 6hold back te>s4 ,x 0 cru%+
6see ? pr\d "y man def1t$1 b>ely af he _h 2gun1 0a l1ky he>t valve he _hn't
felt 9 ei<te5 ye>s4 ,ryan /ood at ! $ge ( camp organiz+ 8 ge>4 ,i came &
sat next 6hm4

8,c ,i help80 ,i ask$1 n "k+ :at 6say4

8,no1 ,i got x all10 he repli$1 fac+ away f me4 ,!n1 he turn$ 6me & knelt 9
! sn[4 ,he 0 cry+1 ! te>s %ak+ 8 l>ge frame4 8,i've dr1m$ ab ? m.ta910 he
sd1 8 voice trembl+4 8,i ev5 w5t \ & _h ? cross made4 ,i ?"\ x wd br+ me
luck40 ,he drew x \ ( 8 fleece4 8,see1 feel x4 ,x has ! "n ( \r t1m1
,hi<,si<ts #'ie 5grav$ on x40 ,i t\*$ ! w>m metal & cd feel ! \tl9e (! lrs4
,!n he took x (f 8 neck & put x >.d m9e4 8,if ,i c't we> x 6! top1 !n ,i
want y to4 ,i want y 6we> x = me4 ,pl1se40

8,i'll we> x10 is all ,i cd say1 2c ,i 0 cry+ too4 ,i hu7$ hm & we %ook
h&s4 ,!n he 0 up1 buckl+ 8 pack & mov+ sl[ly d[n ! m.ta9 )a desc5d+ t1m4 ,i
don't "k :e!r ,ryan's 3di;n 0 j 9cr$ibly bad luck or ! result (! pressure
he plac$ on hmf1 b p]h x simply wasn't 8 "t4 ,maybe if he got prop] tr1t;t
& "w$ j z h>d1 he'd get "h ag "s"d1 or maybe he wdn't1 b "! 0 no?+ ,i cd d
b hug hm1 wi% hm well1 & c>ry 8 cross 6! summit4

,an h\r f \r elev5-?\s&-foot camp1 ,*ris _h an idea4 ,he knew 8 fr
,rodrigo1 ! l1d] ( ano!r climb+ t1m1 wd 2 camp+ ah1d & ,*ris _h told hm ab
! bl climb] :om he wd 2 guid+4 8,rodrigo doesn't "k :o ! bl climb] is4 ,s
,sam10 he sd1 8:5 ,i 9troduce y1 ,i want y 6try 6%ake 8 h& b miss4 ,y "k
:at ,i m1n80 ,sam ne$$ no m explan,n4 ,8 devi\s m9d 0 alr click+ "? !
op;ns4 ,soon we roll$ 96camp & ,rodrigo came b.d+ ov] 6u1 curi\s ab ! bl
climb]4 8,meet ,]ik10 ,*ris sd1 amaz+ly keep+ 8 voice 9 *eck4 ,t 0 ,sam's
cue4 ,he /epp$ =w>d & ?ru/ \ 8 h&4 ,!n he 2gan grop+ 9 ! air feel+ =a h&4
,:5 he f.d ,rodrigo's body1 he 2gan feel+ hm up1 l1v+ no "p unexplor$4
,rodrigo1 /unn$ 0! spectacle1 /ood l a de] froz5 0h1dli<ts4 ,8 l>ge eyes
lock$ on 8 fr ,*ris1 pl1d+ =a su7es;n z 6:at 6d4 ,!n ,*ris cd no l;g] hold
x tgr4 ,he bur/ 96lau<t]4 ,sam /epp$ back & bur/ 96lau<t] too1 & !n ! re/
(! t1m foll[$ suit4 ,rodrigo's expres.n sl[ly *ang$ f a/oni%;t 6! h9t (a
smile4 ,he knew he _h be5 burn$ & 0 j 2g9n+ 6"u/& ! joke4 ,!n ,i /epp$ =w>d
& %ook 8 h& = r1l1 & j =a f9ale1 r1*$ \ = 8 gro94 ,rodrigo back$ up & turn$
6,*ris4 8,oh1 ,*ris10 he sd 9 8 9fam\s ,ricky ,ric>do a35t1 8y're s crazy40

,at elev5 ?\s& feet we 7 sock$ 9 0a /orm t dropp$ fat wet flakes z big z
dimes4 ,we sp5t h\rs 9 ! megamid1 an ei<t-foot-squ>e room we _h made 0di7+
a hole1 build+ sn[ block walls1 & atta*+ a slant$ nylon-fram$ ro( on top4
,we'd swap /ories & pass >.d an imm5se bag ( ll slimy sausages4 ,*ris told
u ab mov+ 6! wilds ( ,alaska & build+ 8 [n log cab9 h\se 9 ,wasilla4 8,i
/ole ! logs f a family ( b1v]s10 ,*ris sd & !n lau<$1 8& ,i /ripp$ ! b>k )
my [n tee?40 ,dur+ 8 f/ w9t]1 sn[drifts pil$ up 6his ro( & 8 favorite husky
dog 0 eat5 0a pack ( wolves4 ,:5 he told u 8 mail+ a4ress1 swe>+ he wasn't
ly+1 we all lau<$4

,mile #ab.b ,s\rd\< ,lane
,?ird ,dirt ,road on ,"r
,f/ ,log ,h\se on ,left
,wasilla1 ,alaska #iibhg


,"?\t ! "d1 di6]5t ,alaskan guides :om ,*ris _hn't se5 s9ce la/ ye> 9 a
simil> /orm wd drop 9 & soon !y'd 2 be/ frs ag1 lau<+ & tell+ l>ge ,alaskan
tales4 ,i lov$ li/5+ 6_! /ories1 : exp]tly blurr$ ! l9e 2t folklore & tru?4
8,i 0 float+ d[n ! ,>agat* :5 ,i r.d$ a corn] & "! !y w]e1 a h]d ( c>ib\1 a
?\s& ?ick if "! 0 "o40

8,h y "e he>d ! /ory ( ,hue ,glass8 ,he 0 tore up 0a grizzly & left = d1d1
b he crawl$ ?irty miles ) 8 guts fall+ \ all ov] ! gr.d & :5 he f.d t old
cod :o left hm = d1d1 well '''0

8,did y he> ab t moose t gor$ t old boy up ne> ,valdez8 ,/omp$ hm flat & !n
damn$ if he didn't spit on ! poor s\l40

8,i 0 up ne> ,fairbanks la/ w9t]4 ,x 0 s cold1 my tires froze 96squ>es4 ,y
"e try driv+ on squ>e tires80

8,"e poke >.d 9 ! ,*ugat* ,range8 ,rock a9't m*4 ,s s(t1 y c c>ve yr "n 9 x
) yr f+]4 ,call x ,*ugat* crud1 b "!'s 5 unclimb$ p1ks 6keep a fella busy =
q a spell40

,*ris1 0f>1 _h ! be/ ,alaskan adv5tures4 ,i lov$ li/5+ 6his r\< twang1
relat+ 8 n>r[ escapes ( giant avalan*es 9 ! ,talkeetna ,range1 8 tr1*]\s
=d+s (! ,mc,k9ley ,riv] :5 he 0 swept1 pack & all1 d[n ! *urn+ rapids1 & 8
isolat$ float trips1 cat*+ ,dolly ,v>d5 & ,>ctic grayl+ abv ! ,>ctic
,circle4 ,i imag9$ ,*ris z a l>g]-?an-life fronti]sman1 /rai<t f ! ,alaskan
bu%1 rid+ c>ib\ acr ! tundra ) ,daniel ,boone1 tgr fi<t+ grizzlies & tam+ !
l&4 8,y m/ 2 a burly dude10 ,i sd 6,*ris4

8,h[ d y picture hm80 ,jeff 9t]ject$ )a h9t (a gr9 9 8 voice4

8,ab six foot two & maybe1 two hundr$ fifty p.ds1 )a big bu%y lumb]jack's
be>d & >ms ( /eel40

,jeff crack$ up1 roll+ back & alm *ok+ on "o (! slimy sausages4 8,? "t1
,sup] ,bl1 yr extras5sory p]cep;n is way (f4 ,six foot two8 ,two hundr$
fifty p.ds8 ,>ms ( /eel8 ,he's m l five foot ei<t &a hundr$ fifty p.ds
soak+ wet4 ,picture a ll w1sely runt )a %9y bald h1d1 & "!'s ,*ris ,morris
= ya40 ,i cdn't 2lieve x4 ,my bra9 cdn't put tgr ,*ris's burly voice &
,jeff's descrip;n4 ,i felt ! way ,doro?y m/ h1 :5 ,toto pull$ ! curta9 back
& expos$ ! ,wiz>d ( ,oz4 ,*ris jump$ up1 deep5+ 8 alr rumbl+ voice4 8,he's
ly+1 ,big ;,e6 ,he's j j1l\s4 ,i'm six foot f\r if ,i'm an 9* & at l1/
two-ei<ty4 ,i'm a big burly suck]1 j l y pictur$ me1 & don't y let any"o
tell y o!rwise40 ,ne$+ 6"k = sure1 ,i jump$ up & gra2$ \ = ,*ris4 ,my f+]s
swept acr 8 bald scalp & !n lock$ >.d 8 biceps1 :1 despite ,*ris flex+ !m z
h>d z he cd1 7 well %y ( burly4

,e s (t51 "s"o wd poke 8 h1d \ (! megamid & report1 8,yep1 x's / sn[+40 ,&
once a fr ( ,*ris's sd1 8,a9't gonna 2 no travel+ td4 ,x's z]o1 z]o \ "!40

8,z]o1 z]o80 ,i ask$4

8,z]o z]o's :at a climb] gets :5 x's all sock$ 9 l x is n[4 ,! sky gets s
gray & flat t y c't tell x f ! sn[4 ,if y're cau<t \ 9 x1 y're 9 a mess (
tr\#4 ,"!'s no tell9' :e!r y're walk9' on ! sky or on ! e>?4 ,y get s
dizzy1 y c't tell : way is up or d[n or sideways4 ,climb]s'll walk "r (f a
cliff1 & won't ev5 "k !y're fall9' till !y hit ! gr.d40

8,-e 6?9k ( x10 ,*ris sd1 turn+ 6me & slapp+ me on ! %\ld]1 8y're 9 z]o z]o
all "d l;g40

,f9,y af f\r "ds1 ! /orm 5d$ & we woke 6cle> skies & s"eal feet ( fre% sn[4
,soon we 7 (f trudg+ up ,motorcycle ,hill t[>d \r f\rte5-?\s&-foot camp4
,p]iodic,y ,i wd ask ,*ris h[ f> we _h 6g1 & he wd reply1 8,we're gett+
pretty close4 ,j a ll :ile l;g]40 ,af ! ?ird cycle ( me ask+ & ,*ris reply+
! id5tical l9es1 ,i 2gan 6gr[ suspici\s4 ,f9,y ,i /opp$ abruptly1 ! rope
go+ tau<t & ,*ris j]k+ 6a /op4 8,>e y ly+ 6me80 ,i ask$1 annoy$4

8,yessir60 he repli$1 lau<+4 8,n[ keep mov9'40 ,! rope tu7$ me =w>d4 ,s1
)\t a lot ( op;ns1 ,i foll[$4 ,t afn1 we navigat$ a notori\s sec;n ( ,w9dy
,corn]4 ,= ?ree h\rs we did n /op mov+ z p[];l w9ds1 /r1m+ /rai<t f !
,>ctic ,sea1 p.d$ ! ice wall & any?+ /upid 5 6move acr x4 ,"o sec;n 3si/$ (
an ei<t-9*-wide trail1 cut 96! side (a glaz$ blue ice wall ris+ five ?\s&
feet abv u & dropp+ away five ?\s& feet 2l u 6! ,ru? ,glaci]4 ,i 3c5trat$
on scann+ ) my trekk+ pole1 f9d+ ! /ep & l[]+ my foot 96x4 ,! metal crampon
blades /rapp$ 6! soles ( my boots dug 96! h>d sn[ & prev5t$ my feet f
slipp+4 ,i l1n$ 96! wall1 "w+ 6(fset my fifty-p.d sl$1 : hung -pletely ov]
! $ge & ?r1t5$ 6pull me ) x4 ,:5 we r.d$ ! corn] ! w9d magic,y 4appe>$1
replac$ 0sun%9e4 ,b ! "d 0 f> f ov]4 ,9 front ( u lay a va/ maze ( op5
crevasses4 ,"o crevasse 0 tw5ty feet acr ) ,w9dex-blue walls plung+ d[n
6black;s4 ,! only way acr 0 a n>r[ two &a half foot sn[ bridge4 8,/ay
directly 2h me10 ,*ris yell$4 8,jeff1 wat* 'em40 ,f>!r up1 ,*ris sd1 8,take
?ree /eps & !n a r1l big "o40 ,i _h be5 li/5+ 6,*ris's frequ5t direc;ns =
two weeks1 "? ?\s&s ( /eps = _m h\rs ea* "d1 s ,i didn't pause 63template ?
"o4 ,:5 ,i took ! 8r1l big "o0 & my foot came d[n1 ,i didn't feel !
reassur+ surface (! sn[ t usu,y greet$ x4 ,i pit*$ =w>d1 sw++ my ice ax
wildly 9 front ( me4 ,x bit 96firm sn[4 ,i _h fall5 up 6my knees 9 a hole 9
! mi4le (! sn[ bridge4 ,my knees dug 96! opposite lip (! sn[ bridge & my
feet dangl$ 9 space4 ,if x _hn't be5 =! ?9 rigid poles ext5d+ f my wai/ 6my
sl$1 fifty p.ds ( ge> wd h slid on top ( me4 ,/ra9+1 ,i pull$ myf \
c>e;lly1 %ak+ a ll4 ,f>!r up ! trail1 ,i %ook ev5 m :5 ,sam told me he _h
pe]$ ov] ! $ge (! hole & cdn't see ! bottom4

,at f\rte5 ?\s& feet we took a re/ "d 6a3limate4 ,! "d 0 sunny1 al? only a
few hundr$ feet 2l u1 cl\ds sock$ 9 ! l[] ,kahiltna ,glaci]4 ,sam sd1 8,x's
l 2+ 9 a lo/ _w1 cut (f f ! place y "k--look+ d[n at cl\ds :5 y %d 2 look+
up40

,af ! usual oatm1l1 ,*ris walk$ >.d cauti\sly1 plac+ wood5 w&s >.d !
p]imet] (a crevasse-free z"o4 ,!n1 he br"\ \ a /uff sack 3v]t$ 96a ball4
8,pick yr sides10 he -m&$4 ,i got up lazily & *ose ,jeff4 8,!n ,i'll take
,sam10 ,*ris sd4 ,i he>d ! :oo% ( ,*ris's ski pole z he swung x ne> my
nose4 8,h['s my sw+80 he ask$ s>ca/ic,y4

8,i bet a bl guy cd /rike y \10 ,i %ot back4 ,*ris batt$ f/1 :ile ,sam w>m$
up 9 ! dug\t2 ,jeff 2came cat*]1 & ,i pit*$4 ,jeff squatt$ 2h ,*ris1 giv+
me ! direc;n ( my pit* 0%\t+1 8,hey batt]1 hey batt]1 hmmm batt]1 batt]40
,i rifl$ ! f/ "o4

8,:oa1 "y sportsman60 ,*ris yell$1 j]k+ back 8 h1d 6avoid a clock+4 8,t "o
cl1n ne> took (f ! hair on my h1d40

8,:at hair80 ,jeff call$ \ f 2h hm4 8,ball "o40

8,j see+ if y're awake10 ,i sd4

,! second pit* 0 "r on t>get1 smok+ "r d[n ! l9e4 8,/rike "o60 ,jeff yell$4
,i _h f.d my aim4 ,! next ripp$ pa/ ,*ris )\t ev5 a sw+4 8,/rike two60
,jeff yell$1 jump+ up ) vi.ns ( /rike ?ree 9 8 h1d4 ,on ! next pit*1 ,i m/
h lo/ my 3c5tr,n1 2c ,i he>d ! :ap ( ,*ris's ski pole ag/ ! ball1 & ,*ris
/rutt$ >.d ! bases1 ea* -pris$ ( pla/ic freeze-dri$ food wrapp]s1 mak+
3gratulatory /ate;ts l1 8,:o's yr da4y8 ,! cr[d goes wild4 ,m>k ,mc,guire's
got no?9' on me40 ,) ,*ris 4tract$ 0self-praise1 ,jeff %ot \ ( 8 cat*]'s
posi;n1 snat*$ up ! ball1 & *as$ ,*ris >.d ! bases1 b ,*ris _h too m* (a
h1d />t & manag$ 6j b1t ,jeff ov] ! home-plate wrapp]4

,gett+ ?ree \ts on ,sam & ,*ris seem$ 6take ="e1 b f9,y ,i /epp$ up 6bat1
tak+ a few h>d practice sw+s1 & ,i notic$ "ey"o qkly got \ ( my way4 ,*ris
lo2$ a c\ple ( easy pit*es 9 my direc;n z ,jeff coa*$1 8,sw+ a ll hi<] '''
too late40 ,*ris cle>ly "ue/imat$ my abil;y1 n hav+ se5 my r\s+ p]=m.e
play+ beep] baseball on ,,tv4 ,on ! ?ird lob1 ,i felt ! pole 3nect )! ball
& he>d ,*ris grumbl+1 8,if he's n aim+ = my cr[n1 he's aim+ = my crot*40 ,z
,i ran ! bases1 ,jeff kept ah1d ( me4 ,:5 he got 6f/1 he yell$ \1 8,ov] "h4
,ov] "h4 ,ov] "h40 ,& j 2f ,i sma%$ 96hm1 he l1p$ \ (! way & ran 6second4
8,ov] "h4 ,ov] "h4 ,ov] "h40 ,!n ,i he>d ,*ris 2h me1 ga9+ fa/4 ,i'll n"e 2
q sure (! ord] ( :at happ5$ next1 b ,i ?9k x w5t l ?3 ,jeff tackl$ ,*ris :o
tackl$ me1 & ,sam pil$ on all ( u1 p]h j =! fun ( x4 ,we roll$ & tum#d "? !
sn[ 9 a cantank]\s pile ( ,,gore-tex knees & elb[s1 & afws1 "ey"o lay on _!
backs 9 ! sn[1 gasp+ = air 9 ! ?9 f\rte5-?\s&-foot atmosph]e4

,we ate lun* 9 ! newly built megamid4 ,*ris made 8 specialty1 : he call$
8gr1se bombs10 made ( ,spam & *$d> *eese 2t two halves (a bagel1 fri$ 9 a
pan1 ) an 9ord9ate am.t ( gr1se4 8,my secret 9gr$i5t's ! gr1se60 ,*ris sd
pr\dly1 tak+ a big crun*y bite4 8,well1 ''' &! ,spam1 ( c\rse40 ,af lun*1
,*ris ask$ ab ! ,am]ican ,f.d,n =! ,bl1 ! organiz,n we 7 support+ "? \r
climb4 8,ov] sev5ty p]c5t ( "w+-age bl p >e unemploy$1 & _m bl *n >e n"e
tau<t ,brl or tau<t 6use a cane4 ,i 0 "o (! lucky "os10 ,i sd1 rememb]+
back 6my /ru7les ) ,mrs4 ,mundy4

8,:y >e s _m bl folks \ ( "w80 ,*ris ask$4

8,i'm n sure10 ,i sd1 ?9k+ h>d1 8b ,i ?9k x has a lot 6d ) p's l[ expect,ns
ab :at bl p c d1 & t rubs (f on bl p !mvs40 ,i told !m ab my failure 6get a
di%wa%] job 9 college4 8,"s guy told me ,i ne$$ 6r1lize my limit,ns4 ,i ?9k
too _m p sit >.d r1liz+ _! limit,ns :51 maybe1 !y %d sp5d m "t r1liz+ _!
pot5tial4 ,! ,,afb does a lot 6-bat ^? l[ expect,ns4 ,la/ ye>1 !y kick$ (f
a public $uc,n campaign )a po/] !y hung up 9 libr>ies & s*ools all ov] !
c.try4 ,! po/] %[$ pictures ( bl p p]=m+ jobs y mi<t n expect4 ,"! 0 a bl
lawy] at a big firm1 a bl sy/ems analy/ 9 ! te*nology field1 a bl
paleontologi/ :o c 4t+ui% 2t di6]5t k9ds ( %ells 0t\*1 a bl color -;tator
=a m9or l1gue baseball t1m1 :o provid$ /ats us+ a /ack ( ,brl *>ts1 & 9 !
c5t]1 yrs truly1 appe>+ z a hi< s*ool wre/l+ coa*4 ,! tag l9e abv !
pictures 0 design$ =a ll %ock value4 ,x r1d1 ,8,bl p--,!y don't j sell
p5cils60'0

8,c !y say t80 ,*ris lau<$4

8,!y did10 ,i repli$4 ,i didn't "k t 0describ+ ! %ock+ tag l9e1 ,i _h op5$
myf up 6,*ris's twi/$ humor4 8,i got a bett] "o ?an t10 he sd excit$ly4
8,bl p--,"eybody %d [n "o60 ,!n1 he rep1t$ x1 a ll sl[] ? "t1 5joy+ x ag 9
8 bra94 8,n[ t's cat*y10 he sd & 2gan patt+ 8 ?i< & mak+ kiss+ noises "?
puck]$ lips4 8,-e "h1 ll bu4y4 ,fet* ,*ris's slipp]s40

,lat] t afn1 we took \ ! cellul> ph"o ,,cnn _h giv5 u 6make p]iodic updates
f ! m.ta94 ,we _h wait$ 6use x until n[1 2c f\rte5 ?\s& feet 0 ! l[e/
elev,n on ! m.ta9 we cd get recep;n4 ,we 7 n[ hi<] ?an mo/ (! o!r p1ks 9 !
,alaska ,range1 no?+ b air 2t u &! satellite rcvr ov] ,an*orage4 ,at ! 5d
(! ,,cnn 9t]view1 ! report] ask$1 8,n[1 c y r1* ! top 2t sev5-fifte5 &
sev5-?irty a4m4 on ,june tw5ty-ei<?1 s we c d a live 9t]view f ! summit80
,i expla9$ t x didn't q "w t way1 b promis$ we'd try4 ,:5 ,i hung up1 ,i
?"\ ab ! ph"o call t ,i _h be5 excit$ 6make all week4 ,x 0 ,"f's ,"d1 & ,i
want$ 6surprise my dad )a call f ! m.ta94 ,i tri$ 6imag9e a b1m ( s.d waves
/r1k+ t[>d ,an*orage1 up 6a satellite 9 space1 & back d[n 6my "f's h\se 9
,3necticut4 ,i knew t 0n[ ,ellie _h >riv$ "! too4 ,8 h\se 0 ! laun*+ po9t =
my family's ,alaskan vac,n1 a two week adv5ture ( raft+1 fi%+1 & camp+ 9
,d5ali ,n,nal ,p>k1 2f h1d+ 6,talkeetna1 \r meet+ place af ! climb4

,s9ce l1v+1 ,i _h miss$ ,ellie t]ribly4 ,%e _h made me a tape1 fill$ )
jokes1 5c\rage;t1 & /ories1 &=! f/ few ni<ts 9 ! t5t1 ,i'd li/5$ 6h] smoo?
danc+ voice4 ,h] r1d+ selec;ns fit h] p]sonal;y p]fectly1 pure 9noc;e on !
\tside1 -b9$ )a ll flair ( devili%;s4 ,2t h] selec;ns f ..,walt ,4ney's
,w9nie ,! ,pooh & .,ti7] & ..,! ,cornie/ ,jokes ,y've ,"e .,he>d1 %e _h
slipp$ 9 a few .,p5th\se 8,=um0 lrs4 ,li/5+ 6h] voice1 h["e1 _h fill$ me )a
deep a*e & s* a s5se ( l"oli;s2 ,i _h 6turn ! tape record] (f4

,hold+ ! cell ph"o 9 my h&1 ,i 3sid]$ n ev5 call+ ,ellie1 b ,i cdn't /op my
f+]s f dial+ ! numb]s4 8,hey ,dad10 ,i sd l\dly1 8 voice a ll fa9t on ! o!r
side4 8,happy ,"f's ,"d40 ,we talk$ = j a mo;t 2f ,ellie got on ! l9e4 8,"!
>e a lot ( p root+ = y10 %e sd1 h] voice upb1t4 8,j td ,i rcvd a bun* ( lrs
f a class 9 ,ohio4 ,"o ll girl donat$ a doll> 6! ,,afb4 ,"ey"o's pr\d ( :at
y're do+1 & ,i am too40

8,? may s.d /range10 ,i sd1 8b ! 5]gy ( all ^? p1 x helps a lot4 ,oh1 0!
way1 we've be5 li/5+ 6yr /ories10 ,i sd4 8,*ris1 ,sam1 & ,jeff re,y 5joy$
!m too4 ,!y keep borr[+ yr tape e ni<t40 ,ellie lau<$4

,s m* _h happ5$ alr s9ce ,i _h la/ se5 ,ell5 t x 0 h>d 6decide :at 6talk
ab4 ,i told h] ab ,ryan hav+ 6g d[n1 ,i m5;n$ a few ( ,*ris ,morris's
expres.ns1 & describ$ ! baseball game &! gr1se bombs we _h = lun* t "d4 ,!n
x 0 "t 6say gd-bye1 & ,i knew "! 7 no ^ws t wd give h] a true grasp ( ?
wild place4 ,:ile h] voice s.d$ cle>1 ,i felt %e 0 a _w away4

,t ev5+ af ,i 0 alr 9 my sleep+ bag1 ,sam1 / \tside1 sd1 8,hey "ey"o1 get \
"h40 ,! urg5cy 9 8 voice made me scram# 6?r[ on my p>ka & 9n] boots4 ,:5 ,i
popp$ \ (! t5t & got 6my feet1 ,i cd he> a cr[d ( voices murmur+ h1t$ly l
spectators at a golf mat*4 8,"!'s a guy )a sn[bo>d way up "!4 ,he's
probably f\r ?\s& feet abv u4 ,he looks l a speck 6me b a guy ov] "h has "s
b9ocul>s40 ,! speck turn$ \ 6be a ?rill seek] :o want$ 6be ! f/ p]son
6sn[bo>d d[n ! ,messn] ,c\loir1 a /eep l;g sn[ gully t ran f tw5ty ?\s&
feet 6a few hundr$ feet up f u4 ,z he pick$ up spe$ d[n ! c\loir1 we he>d a
rum#4 ,a deep ja7$ fracture l9e appe>$ 9 ! sn[ abv hm4 ,!n he 0 tumbl+ z he
0 swept d[n ! c\loir 9 ! mid/ (a rag+ avalan*e4 ,a trem5d\s slab ( sn[ !
size (a football field tore d[n ! slope & dropp$ ov] a ?\s&-foot s]ac1 an
imm5se wall ( ice4 ,:5 x hit1 x %ook ! gr.d l dynamite4 ,a tall plume ( sn[
%ot 96! air4 8,get d[n 2h yr t5t10 ,*ris %\t$1 &a second lat] we 7 bla/$ 0a
/a7]+ gu/ ( w9d & /++ sn[4 ,al? we 7 hundr$s ( y>ds f ! slide1 ! =ce 0 5
6cov] u ) an 9* ( 4plac$ sn[4 8,": is he80 p 7 %\t+4 8,i c't see hm4 ,holy
%it4 ,"!'s no way he cd h surviv$ t40

8,:at's t80 ,*ris scr1m$4 8,t speck 9 ! sn[8 ,is t a rock80

8,i'm n sure4 ,x cd be40 ,soon ! guides _h m.t$ a rescue attempt4 ,x 0 t5
p4m41 b / li<t "u ! ,>ctic sun4 ,!y 7 tir$ f ! "w (a l;g "d1 r1dy 6h1d
9side _! t5ts1 b 9/1d !y 7 ?r[+ tgr a provi.n ( sleep+ bags1 wat]1 a sl$1 &
m$ical equip;t1 & rac+ t[>d ! d>k speck 9 ! sn[4 ,i admir$ _! s5se ( duty4
,no matt] h[ /upid "s climb]'s act was1 o!rs wd risk _! lives 6rescue hm4
,late t ni<t1 ,i he>d !m return+4 ,a two-?\s&-foot tum#1 a ?\s&-foot fall1
& an h\r's imprison;t up 6his neck 9 ce;tlike sn[ miracul\sly _h n kill$ !
sn[bo>d]4 ,if ! guides _h gott5 "! only a few m9utes lat]1 he wd h di$1 b
!y _h f.d hm 9 "t1 wrapp$ hm up 9 d[n bags1 & dra7$ hm 9 a sl$ d[n ! slope
6! f\rte5-?\s&-foot rang]'s t5t4 ,a doctor1 :o 0 am;g a "py ( climb]s1 _h
driv5 a l>ge ne$le 96his *e/ 6suck ! air f 8 plural cav;y & re9flate "o ( 8
lungs1 : _h be5 cru%$ 0his [n spl9t]+ ribs4 ,i cd he> ! helicopt]'s
propell]s z x took (f )! sn[bo>d] 9side4 ,he _h want$ 6be ! f/ p]son
6sn[bo>d ! ,messn] ,c\loir1 b 9/1d he wd live ! re/ ( 8 life z a p>aplegic4

,lat] ,i fell 96a re/.s half sleep4 ,all ! lay]s ( d[n1 fleece1 & nylon
pil$ 2n me w]5't 5 69sulate me f ! mile-?ick ice (! glaci]4 ,i dr1m$ t ,i 0
! sn[bo>d]1 hurtl+ \ ( 3trol d[n ! five-?\s&-foot c\loir1 rid+ ! enorm\s
slab t _h ripp$ away abv me4 ,! e>? rum#d >.d me z ! gray rocks & sky %ot
0in %ad[y swirls4 ,!n ,i 0 tumbl+ ov] ! ice s]ac 9 a massive sea ( sn[ &
debris1 swimm+1 swimm+ z ,i _h be5 tau<t1 fi<t+ 6keep my h1d abv ! spill4
,9 ! morn+ ,i woke )a holl[ n]v\s feel+ 9 ! pit ( my /oma*1 & ,i 0 extra
sl[ 9 ge>+ up1 dr1d+ ! mo;t :5 ,i wd em]ge f ! t5t 6face ! ele;ts4 ,5t]+ !
megamid1 ,i he>d ,jeff ask+ ,*ris1 8,did y feel x80

8,hell y1h1 ,i felt x4 ,%ook me \ ( my sleep4 ,y boys j slept "? a gd old
fa%ion$ ,alaskan e>?quake40

8,did y *eck \ ! s]ac1 ! "o ! dude sail$ ov]80 ,jeff ask$4 ,"ey"o look$ \4

8,holy %it10 ,sam gasp$4 8,x's g"o4 ,x's tot,y g"o40 ,! s]ac _h be5 reduc$
6a spl9t]$ pile ( ice frag;ts4 ,9 ! la/ tw5ty-f\r h\rs1 we _h be5 rem9d$ t
we 7 op]at+ 9 an 5viron;t oblivi\s 6\r pres;e1 a place ": avalan*es &
e>?quakes cd oblit]ate a ?\s&-ton t[] ( ice &! t9y humans 9 xs wake
ov]ni<t4

,! f/ "d abv f\rte5 ?\s& feet seem$ 5d.s4 ,*ris told u1 8,"ey?+ up
6f\rte5's j a slog4 ,abv x1 y're re,y climb+40 ,true 6his ^w1 ! next two
?\s& feet ho/$ ! /eepe/ "p (! m.ta91 ! sixty-degree h1dwall (! buttress4 ,i
cdn't seem 6cat* my br1?4 8,pressure br1!60 ,*ris sd4 8,y gotta f9d yr
rhy?m40 ,b ,i cdn't seem 6f9d x4 ,my pack felt h1vi] ?an x "e _h4 ,! wei<t
seem$ 6-press my sp9e & squeeze my 9t]nal organs4 ,my *e/ /rap su6ocat$ my
labor$ br1?+4 ,! hip /raps cut %>ply 96my sides & kept slipp+1 s t ! %\ld]
/raps wei<$ d[n on my traps4 ,e>li] ,i he>d ab a woman :o _h made ! summit
( ,mc,k9ley 0%e] w1 b 9 obta9+ h] goal1 _h cross$ h] ?re%old4 ,j 2l !
summit1 %e collaps$ & di$1 h] froz5 body sl[ly buri$ 0fall+ sn[4 ,i wond]$
h[ f> ,i cd pu% myf 2f ,i collaps$ 9 ! sn[4 ,i fe>$ t ,i _h made a horri#
mistake 9 -+ "h1 & ,i s]i\sly d\bt$ ,i _h ! /r5g? )9 me 6r1* ! next camp1
let al"o ! summit4 ,i tri$ 63c5trate on my br1?+ &! place;t ( ea* /ep4
8,rhy?m10 ,i will$4 8,f9d ! rhy?m40 ,"?\t ! five h\rs we toil$ up ! /eep
face1 ,i n"e f.d my rhy?m1 & x n"e got any easi]4 ,o!r "ds 7 h>d1 b ? "d _h
cle>ly be5 my grte/ /ru7le1 :5 ,i came close/ 6turn+ back4 ,:5 x f9,y 5d$1
& ,i collaps$ 96a dank sn[ cave at sixte5 ?\s& feet1 ,i 0 m exhau/$ ?an ,i
_h "e be54 ,! "d cd1 9 no way1 2 describ$ z fun4 ,9 fact1 x 0 mis]a#1 b 9
an unlikely way1 ! exp]i;e _h al be5 a r>e privilege4 ,e few mo;ts1 :5 ,i
_h ?"\ ,i 0 at my absolute limit1 ,i 0 a# 6pu% "? x1 & n"e once _h ,i felt
l collaps+ 9 ! sn[ z ,i _h fe>$4 ,"s limits 7 r1l1 l ! 9abil;y 6climb a
tw5ty-?\s&-foot p1k 2f a3limatiz+ 6! ?9 oxyg54 ,b _m m limits 7 3cvd &
impos$ 9 my m9d1 & "! 0 a tortur\s b1uty 9 cross+ "? !m4

,liv+ 9 a sn[ cave 0 grim4 ,! ceil+s 7 s l[ t y cdn't sit up"r4 ,\r body
h1t w>m$ ! walls & !y emitt$ a damp cl+y atmosph]e4 ,we lay \ \r foam pads
& lay h1d 6toe1 bick]+ 3/antly4 8,yr smelly sock is 9 my face40

8,yr ass is on my mat1 home *ick54 ,move ov]40

8,i c't4 ,!n ,i'll 2 on ,sam's mat40 ,we lay l t = h\rs >gu+ ov] :o smell$
! wor/ & :o 0 ! bi7e/ dirtbag4 ,jeff po9t$ \ t he _h p]son,y se5 me /a% my
too?bru% & too?pa/e 9 a pile ( noness5tials left at f\rte5 ?\s& feet1 & 2c
( ? 9=m,n1 felt ,i %d w9 ! prize4 8,yr br1?10 he sd ) 3vic;n1 8smells l my
ass4 ,h y be5 bru%+ yr tee? ) toilet pap]80

8,i wi% yr br1? smell$ z gd z my ass10 ,i repli$4 8,t wd 2 a big
improve;t40

,a few "ds e>li] we _h he>d ab two guys want+ 6p>aglide (f ! summit4 ,we _h
be5 lau<+ ab all ! ?+s we wi%$ !y'd drop (f = u on _! way d[n4 ,jeff
rebutt$ )1 8,i j wi% ^? p>aglid]s wd glide ov] "h & drop (f a ll too?pa/e40
,9 ! mid/ (! volley+1 ,sam slipp$ ov] 6! 5tr.eway4 8,hey guys10 he
9t]rupt$4 ,no "o m9d$4 8,x looks l ! w1!r's improv$40 ,he 4appe>$ \tside &
reem]g$ a few m9utes lat]4 8,i /r;gly advise "eybody -e \ "h "r away10 he
sd4 ,al? ! cave 0 mis]a#1 ! cold & h\rs ( ly+ >.d _h made me le?>gic4 ,f9,y
,i scram#d \ )! o!rs4 ,x 0 elev5 p4m41 b ! f/ ?+ ,i felt 0 ! ,alaskan sun
on ! back ( my neck4 ,"ey"o 0 quiet z !y look$ \ ov] ,m.t ,=ak]1 a
sev5te5-?\s&-foot p1k1 second hi<e/ 6,d5ali4 8,! sun is hitt+ ! top (
,=ak]10 ,sam describ$4 8,m.t ,=ak] is popp+ \ (a mass ( :ite pu6y cl\ds &!
sun's mak+ x rosy40

8,! "p abv ! cl\ds looks l a cr[n10 ,jeff a4$4

,? "d _h run ! gamut4 ,h>d%ip & exhaus;n _h 5velop$ u l ! bill[+ lay] (
cl\ds 2l a summit1 b \ (! su6]+ em]g$ a r>e simple b1uty4 ,/rangely1 ! "d
came close/ 6captur+ ! ess;e ( :y ,i climb4 ,"s p expla9 t !y climb 2c x's
fun1 b = me1 ? ^w is misl1d+4 ,fun is float+ 9 an 9n] tube d[n a lazy riv]
on a w>m summ]'s "d )a six-pack ( be] float+ next 6me1 b "! is simply no ^w
9 ! ,5gli% language 6describe ! exp]i;e ( climb+ m.ta9s4 ,! feel+ is an
9sep>a# bl5d ( extremes & 3tradic;ns1 f ! mis]y (a sixty-p.d pack cru%+ my
sp9e 6! ec/asy (! w>m sun on my neck &a descrip;n (! ev5+ sky ov] ,m.t
,=ak]4

,on "d fifte5 we f9,y r1*$ \r sev5te5-?\s&-foot camp af a /eep climb up an
expos$ ridge ( sn[ & ja7$ rock4 ,i 0 s tir$1 ,i felt l ,i 0 only "ply
3sci\s4 ,*ris wd look back & yell1 8,x's n>r[ >.d t rock b&1 s wat* yr
/ep40 ,i cd only mu/] 5 5]gy 6grunt 9 response z ,i me*anic,y he$$ 8 w>n+4
,:5 we came 96camp1 we 4cov]$ an ab&on$ igloo4 ,"! 0 j 5 room 9side = ,*ris
6use x z \r camp kit*54 ,we 2gan 6dig a flat space =! t5ts4 ,*ris 2gan
%ovel+ b at ? altitude ev5 he 0 br1?+ h>d af only a few m9utes4 ,s1 we =m$
a l9e2 ea* ( u wd %ovel =a few m9utes & !n ano!r wd take ov]1 :ile ! p]son
:o j f9i%$ wd g 6! 5d (! l9e 6recov]4

,! next "d 0 def9itely n a summit "d4 ,l5ticul> cl\ds hung ov] ! summit &
huge plumes ( sn[ 7 bl[+ >.d4 ,! w1!r 0 gd 5 = u 6hike \ 6a l$ge t ov]look$
! ,kahiltna base camp1 t5 ?\s& feet 2l4 ,f "h1 a cru/y old ,alaskan once
told u1 y cd see f>!r ?an any po9t on e>?4 ,sam describ$ ! giant crevasse
we _h cross$1 n[ only a d>k spot ag/ ! gray & :ite l&scape4 ,x 0 h>d
6imag9e t we _h 9*$ \r way up t t5-?\s&-foot expanse4 ,we _h alr -e a l;g
way4

,0! second "d at hi< camp1 ! w1!r _h n improv$4 ,abv u1 ne> ! summit1 w9d
gu/$ at ov] a hundr$ miles p] h\r4 ,we 5t]ta9$ \rvs 0sitt+ 9 ! igloo1 try+
6pull 3v]s,ns \ ( ea* o!r t _hn't alr be5 extract$ "?\t ! la/ sev5te5 "ds4
,my te*nique 0 6let my m9d g blank1 all[+ ! ev5ts (! "d 6slip 0) -plete
a3ept.e & ll judg;t4 ,e n[ & !n1 = 8 [n 5t]ta9;t1 ,sam wd snap 8 f+]s 9
front ( my face & say1 8,any"o home 9 "!80 ,dur+ s* "ts ( boredom ,*ris wd
amaze u )! curi\s ll toys t he kept hi45 away 9 8 pack1 sav+ !m = j s* an
o3a.n4 ,at elev5 ?\s& feet x _h be5 a hacky sack1 at f\rte5 ?\s& feet1 a
ball made \ (a /uff sack1 & at sev5te5 ?\s& feet1 x 0 a 4#b.ii
,km>t-special kite4 ,he took x g+]ly f xs bag &1 lay+ x on 8 lap1 *eck$ !
knots & ran 8 f+]s ov] ! wood5 /icks l a "m 9spect+ h] * 2f s*ool4 ,he 0
b1m+1 2c any?+ t provid$ a "d's 5t]ta9;t on a /orm "d 9 ! m.ta9s 0 m valua#
?an gold4 ,9/1d ( sp5d+ ano!r "d 9 ! igloo eat+ sausages \ (a bag1 he wd 2
5joy+ ! op5 spaces1 fly+ 8 kite ": mo/ p fly a plane4 ,z he excit$ly pull$
on 8 boots & gloves1 he turn$ 6u )a smile & sd1 8,don't wait up = me1
boys40 ,i he>d 8 boots crun*+ away & imag9$ 8 ll kite tuck$ c>e;lly "u 8
>m4 ,t5 m9utes lat] he 0 back4 8,=get "s?+80 ,i ask$4

8,":'s ! kite80 ,jeff ask$4 ,*ris pull$ a spool ( /r+ f 8 jacket4 ,! 5d (!
/r+ hung limply 9 front ( hm4 8,t's :at y get :5 y try 6fly a kite 9
sixty-mile-an-h\r w9ds10 ,sam lau<$4

,on ! ?ird "d1 ! bad w1!r _h 9cr1s$ 6a full-scale blizz>d4 ,jeff or ,i wd h
6ge> up e few h\rs 6%ovel away ! sn[ t 0 creep+ up ! walls (! t5t4 ,gett+ \
( \r w>m bags & expos+ \rvs 6! full brunt (! blizz>d 0 f> m app1l+ ?an 2+
cru%$ 0a3umulat$ sn[4 ,! wor/ "p ab na/y w1!r 0 visit+ ! 8ice ?r"o10 an old
sl$ 3v]t$ 96a latr9e t sat a hundr$ y>ds d[n ! hill4 ,jeff _h tri$ 6improve
! exp]i;e 0tack+ a .,p5th\se c5t]fold 6! side (! sl$4 ,9 ! mid/ (! /orm ,i
%ook ,sam1 :o 0 ly+ on 8 belly1 8 face buri$ 9 8 d[n jacket pill[4 8,dude1
,i gotta grump40

8,c't y wait80

8,no60 ,i repli$ urg5tly4

8,does any"o ne$ 6visit ! grump /,n ) ,]ik80 ,sam yell$1 n bo!r+ 6roll ov]4
,*ris 0 ! f/ 6respond f 8 t5t4 8,i draw ! l9e1 boys4 ,i'll haul 'em1 b ,i
won't grump 'em40

,sam lay / = ano!r m9ute & !n abruptly sat up4 8,damn x10 he si<$4 8,y got
bum rub8 ,i guess ,i cd mu/] "o up40 ,we bo? suit$ up ) \r balaclavas cov]+
\r faces1 ?ree-lay] mitt5s & d[n jackets1 & po/hol$ d[n "? fre% sn[4 ,f/
,sam w5t1 8 boots /&+ on ea* side (! sl$1 cr\*$ ov] bomb>di] /yle1 :ile ,i
tri$ 6block ! w9d ) my body4

8,hurry up10 ,i sd4 8,i'm freez+40 ,!n x 0 my turn4 ,& 9 ! brief "t x took
me 6take my mitt5s (f1 yank d[n my ,,gore-tex bibs1 locate ! toilet pap]1 &
wipe 9 crucial >1s1 my h&s w5t -pletely numb4 ,i cdn't feel ! ,,tp 9 my h&1
b x didn't re,y matt]1 2c ,i cdn't feel my expos$ rump ei4 ,i manag$ 6pull
up my fleece & bibs ) d1d fi% h&s4 ,sam _h />t$ back =! t5t ah1d ( me & ,i
f"\ 6cat* hm "? ?i<-deep sn[ & bli/]+ w9d4 ,:5 ,i f9,y /um#d 96! t5t1 ,i 0
gasp+ = br1? & my freez+ face _h jo9$ my h&s1 -pletely numb4 ,:5 ,i plopp$
d[n onto my bag1 ,i ?"\ ab ! ord1l & cd n imag9e an exp]i;e 2+ s utt]ly
grim4

,if mak+ x back alive f ! ice ?r"o 0 ? h>d1 ,i ?"\1 !n mak+ x 6! summit wd
2 d[n"r impossi#4

,0! f\r? "d at hi< camp1 we 7 runn+ \ ( food & fuel4 ,we only _h ?ree boxes
( mac>oni & *eese &a pile ( old froz5 c&y b>s we _h f.d /a%$ 9 ! igloo4 ,!
re/ ( \r food 0 all ! way d[n at f\rte5 ?\s& feet4 ,ly+ 9 ! t5t next 6,sam1
,i cd feel \r opportun;y1 : 0 once s b.d.s1 slipp+ away l a puny dw9dl+
/ack ( old c&y b>s4 8,all ? "w1 all \r tra9+10 ,i sd1 8we're s close1 & we
/ may n summit40 ,i cdn't get ov] ? 3flict 2t my desire 6summit &! cold
r1l;y (! m.ta9s4 ,ov] ! la/ ye>1 we _h put 9 s m* ef=t1 a "p ( me felt l x
0 \r "r 6summit4 ,all ! runn+1 ! /air climb+1 ! practice climbs1 !
h1vy-load c>ry+1 _h be5 a te/ : we _h pass$1 b on ,d5ali1 y cd rcv a p]fect
score & / 2 turn$ back4 ,^? :o impos$ _! human rules ov] ! natural laws (!
m.ta9 7 extremely lucky if !y liv$ 6regret x4 ,dur+ \r ei<te5 "ds on
,mc,k9ley1 ?ree climb]s _h di$ :ile try+ 6r1* ! top4 ,j ! "d 2f1 two
climb]s _h left =! summit ) /orm cl\ds abv & w5t miss+ = tw5ty-f\r h\rs4
,few "e surviv$ a ni<t \ on ! upp] m.ta91 &! 3s5sus at hi< camp 0 t !y 7
surely d1d4 ,e>li] ? morn+1 h["e1 ,*ris spott$ !m1 /a7]+ d[n ! sn[ slope
abv ! sev5te5-?\s&-foot bas92 !y wd take a few flail+ /eps1 fall d[n1 slide
a ways1 /ru7le up1 & take a few m /eps4 8,^? two boys >e ! luckie/ fools
alive10 ,*ris sd matt]-(-factly4 ,miracul\sly1 ! two1 lo/ 9 a :ite\t only a
few h\rs f camp1 /um#d ^u a sn[ cave1 built 0previ\s climb]s1 & _h hunk]$
9side "? ! ni<t4 ,*ris & ,jeff help$ ! two 96_! t5t4 ,:ile ,jeff boil$
wat]1 ,*ris pull$ (f _! boots1 socks1 & gloves1 assess+ qkly t !y wd bo?
lose "s toes & f+]s4

,t ni<t we 7 sil5t z we he>d ,base ,camp ,annie1 \r only 3tact )! \tside
_w1 give ! w1!r report =! next "d4 ,x call$ =a brief br1k 9 ! /orm 2f x
resum$ at full =ce4 ,*ris turn$ 6u & sd firmly1 8,y don't decide :5 6climb
a m.ta94 ,! m.ta9 decides40

,0! fif? "d1 h["e1 ,d5ali seem$ 6be %[+ xs frli] side4 ,miracul\sly ! sky 0
cle>]4 ,l5ticul> cl\ds hov]$ ov] ! summit ( ,m.t ,=ak]1 b 2c we knew ? mi<t
2 \r la/ %ot1 we decid$ 6climb 6z hi< z ! sa4le 2t ! nor? & s\? summits1 ":
we cd reevaluate ! w1!r4 ,we left at six a4m41 rop$ up 96two t1ms & wad$ "?
a field ( ?i<-deep sn[4 ,x 0 a /ru7le plac+ my feet 9 ! deep boot holes t
,*ris _h made4 ,_m "ts ,i wd miss !m & 2g9 ve]+ 6! left or "r (! trail4 ,?
0 a horribly 9e6ici5t use ( 5]gy & ,i knew t 3t9u\sly br1k+ my [n trail abv
sev5te5 ?\s& feet wd exhau/ me qkly4

,) my ti<t fleece hat &! ?ick ela/ic /rap ( my go7les ov] my e>s1 -b9$ )!
3/ant w9d roll+ d[n f ! sa4le1 ,i 0 cut (f f ! \tside _w4 ,! frigid /++ air
ev5 oblit]at$ my s5se ( smell4 ,my _m lay]s ( fleece & ,,gore-tex1
?ree-lay] mitt5s1 & huge pla/ic boots protect$ me f ! =ty-2l-z]o
temp]ature1 & felt l a cocoon >.d me4 ,? 5viron;t 0 bo? awe-9spir+ &
9hospita#1 cle>ly unsuita# =! delicate flick]+ w>m? (a human life4 ,al?
,*ris travel$ only ?irty feet 9 front ( me & ,sam ?irty feet 2h me1 ,i felt
z solit>y z an a/ronaut explor+ ! l&scape (! moon4

,next we r1*$ ! ,autobahn1 a /eep trav]se1 : l$ "o ?\s& feet 6! sa4le4
,climb]s1 3/antly surr.d$ 0d1?1 develop a sick s5se ( humor4 ,! ,autobahn 0
"nd =! l>ge numb] ( ,g]man "pies :o _h pit*$ (f ! side ( x 6_! d1?s4 ,ano!r
ne>by sec;n (! m.ta9 0 "nd ,! ,ori5t ,express1 = simil> r1sons4 8,we h
6-plete ! ,autobahn 9 at l1/ two h\rs10 ,*ris sd1 8or x m1ns we're mov+ too
sl[40 ,i tri$ 6=ce my body 6move m qkly s we wdn't h 6turn >.d4 ,9t]nal
monologues wd 3t9u\sly play 9 my h1d4 8,quit 2+ a baby4 ,y're n s tir$4
,we'll re/ 9 =ty m9utes1 tops40 ,ev5tu,y1 af :at seem$ l hundr$s ( pep
talks1 ,i /epp$ (f ! trav]se onto a flatt] sec;n & ,*ris told me t ? 0 !
sa4le4 ,we made x 9 "o h\r & fifty m9utes4

,! w1!r seem$ 6be hold+1 s we made ! deci.n 6keep go+1 trav]s+ up an 5d.sly
/eep slope1 )! sn[ 3solidat$ 96glaci] ice1 h>d & w9dbl[n4 ,) no boot holes
6f9d & only ! repetitive 3si/5cy ( my ei<t crampon po9ts di7+ & cat*+ 9 !
smoo? h>d ice1 propell+ my body upw>d1 ,i 2gan 6feel ! rhy?m ( cl1n1 pure1
9t]nal move;t4 ,=! f/ "t all morn+1 ,i d>$ 62lieve we _h a *.e4

,f9,y we came \ onto ! ,football ,field1 a l>ge gradual slope ": n9ete5 "ds
ago1 \r f/ on ! m.ta91 "o ( two ,taiwanese climb]s _h di$ & be5 buri$ "s":
ne>by4 8,n a place y want 6get /uck on10 ,*ris w>n$4 ,i =c$ myf 6hurry pa/1
fe>+1 ) e /ep1 t ,i 0 trespass+ on top ( 8 grave4

,next 0 ,pig ,hill1 a six-hundr$-foot h1dwall t 0 ! la/ grunt 2f ! summit
ridge4 ,z we 2gan 6climb1 ,sam1 ,*ris1 & ,i 7 no l;g] ?ree 9dividual
climb]s1 b 7 rop$ tgr1 mov+ up ! slope l a sli!r+ snake4 ,ea* (! "ps "w$1
nei pull+ nor tu7+1 6move ! unit =w>d4 ,!n "s?+ v /range happ5$1 "s?+ t has
n"e happ5$ 6me s9ce1 :ile s ne> a summit2 ,i 2gan 6feel /r;g]4 ,halfway up1
,*ris turn$ 6me & paus$ =a few seconds4 8,i don't usu,y say ?1 ,big ;,e1 2c
,i don't want 6j9x any?+1 b ,i ?9k we're gonna make x40

,:5 we cre/$ ,pig ,hill1 ! summit seem$ v close1 b ,i didn't r1lize ! h>de/
"p 0 yet 6-e4 ,3nect+ ,pig ,hill 6! summit 0 ! summit ridge1 j a qu>t] mile
l;g1 b only two feet wide1 )a ?\s&-foot drop on "o side &a n9e-?\s&-foot
drop on ! o!r4 ,! gd news 9 ? bl1k sc5>io 0 t1 if ,i fell1 x re,y wdn't
matt] : side x 0 (f (4 ,2f ! ridge ,*ris hu4l$ u >.d hm & spoke1 8 voice
unusu,y calm4 8,boys1 li/5 c>e;lly4 ,if y fall "h1 we all fall4 ,y'll drag
u all (f ! side (! m.ta94 ,s1 if ,i hav5't expla9$ myf pla9ly10 he l1n$ 9
t[>d u z 8 voice ga9$ mo;tum1 8:at ,i'm tell+ y boys is ''' ,,don't
,,fall60 ,i 0 n]v\s1 tak+ ea* /ep sl[ly & c>e;lly4 ,9 my life (f ! m.ta91
,i cd /um# & fall & get up ag1 b ,i knew1 on ! ridge1 ! m.ta9 wdn't tol]ate
a mistake4 ,!n ,i l1n$ on my pole & x m/ h be5 too close 6! $ge4 ,! sn[
gave way "u ! wei<t1 & ,i felt myf sway =w>d ov] ! side4 ,i qkly recov]$ &
/epp$ back4 8,damn x60 ,*ris yell$1 8 gruff voice mask+ 8 n]v\s;s4 8,te/ x
f/ 2f y wei<t x40

,i f.d my 3fid;e ag & sl[ly plac$ ea* /ep1 te/+ ea* 0gradu,y wei<t+ my
front foot :ile keep+ t5.n on my back leg4 ,af e /ep1 ,i'd keep my be>+s
0tapp+ my ice ax ag/ ! left $ge (! ridge1 slid+ ! tip s"eal 9*es 9w>d acr !
slope until x bit firm solid sn[1 & f9,y plung+ x in4 ,my o!r h& us$ my
pole 6scan = boot holes & monitor ! "r $ge4 ,all my prep>,n1 all my skills
seem$ 6ga!r tgr 96? mo;t4 ,! process ( scann+1 /epp+1 & br1?+ 0 all-3sum+1
s t ! ext5t ( my life 0 reduc$ 6mov+ sl[ly & rhy?mic,y up ! n>r[ ridge1 z
if "! _h n"e be5 any?+ m ?an ! tug (! rope1 my raw amplifi$ br1?+1 &! c>e;l
crisp bite ( my equip;t 9 ! firm sn[4 ,h[ b1uti;l x 0 9 xs sev];y1 my :ole
2+ tot,y 3solidat$ 96"o purpose4 ,/ep4 ,br1!1 br1!1 br1!4 ,/ep4

,i 0 3c5trat+ s fully1 ,*ris's voice1 "r 9 front ( me1 yell+ ov] ! w9d1
seem$ 6em]ge z if ,i 7 wak+ f a dr1m4 8,3gratul,ns1 y're /&+ on ! top (
,nor? ,am]ica40 ,x seems /range t ! la/ /ep felt no di6]5t f ! ?\s&s &
?\s&s ( previ\s /eps ,i _h tak5 9 ! la/ n9ete5 "ds4 ,x 0 j ano!r /ep1 & !n
,i 0 "!4

,immly ,i sat d[n 9 ! sn[1 su6]+ f a gurgl+ hi<-altitude c\<4 ,!n ,sam 0
next 6me4 8,we're n q "! yet1 ,big ;,e10 he sd4

8,y're jok+10 ,i be7$4 ,b 2f ,i cd prote/1 "eybody's >ms 7 >.d me & ,i 0 2+
guid$ up a ll embank;t4 ,i cd he> _! br1?+ & _! ,,gore-tex crackl+ 9 ! w9d4
,we all /ood z a t1m on ! ?ree-foot-by-?ree-foot m.d ( sn[1 : m>k$ ! true
summit ( ,mc,k9ley4 ,sadly1 ?\<1 ,i cd feel ,ryan's abs;e1 & ,i r1*$ 96my
%irt & felt 8 ,hi<,si<ts cross w>m ag/ my sk94 ,!n we unfurl$ ! ,am]ican
,f.d,n =! ,bl flag & pos$ =a few glory %ots4

,z ! la/ photo click$1 ,i he>d ! t9y me*anical buzz (! ,cessna plane circl+
abv4 ,an h\r 2f summitt+1 we _h radio$ d[n 6,base ,camp ,annie1 :o radio$ \
6a small air/rip 9 ,talkeetna ": my family wait$4 ,n[ z ,i /ood on ! top1
my dad1 my two bro!rs1 & ,ell5 7 circl+ abv me1 %>+ 9 ? exhil>at+ mo;t4 ,x
0 /range1 "k+ t !y 7 only a few hundr$ y>ds away1 yet ,i cdn't t\* !m or
he> _! voices4 ,lat] ,i le>n$ t ,m>k _h spott$ u f/1 t9y r$ dots mov+ sl[ly
ag/ 9f9ite :ite4 ,he lift$ 8 oxyg5 mask =a mo;t & tapp$ ,ellie4 8,"! !y
>e60 he sd1 8 ^ws trembl+ ) excite;t & vibrat+ )! plane's 5g9e4 8,"! !y >e1
,ellie60 ,ellie 0 s n]v\s = u1 %e only manag$ a nod1 ! te>s spill+ d[n h]
face z %e pe]$ "? ! w9d[4

,my t1m all wore id5tical r$ ,,gore-tex %ells4 ,&) \r hats & go7les cov]+
\r faces1 we 7 9dist+ui%a#4 ,z ! plane swoop$ by1 we all wav$ \r ski poles
& *e]$4 ,!n ,i ask$ ,sam if he ?"\ my family wd "k : "o 0 me4 8,i ?9k !y
w10 he lau<$4 8,y're ! only "o wav+ yr ski pole 9 ! wr;g direc;n40

,*ris's voice 0 / on $ge :5 he cut 96\r celebr,n4 8,? a9't no place 6be
screw+ ! poo*4 ,! w1!r's *ang+1 boys1 & we ne$ 6move4 ,! summit's only !
halfway po9t40 ,my ?irty seconds ( c>efree exhil>,n 7 ov]4 ,! o!rs 7 / hu7+
& %\t+1 ice axes drawn t[>d ! sky4 ,i /ood aside f ! celebr,n1 a fla% (
panic %oot+ "? me l a li<tn+ bolt4 ,y've gott5 up "h4 ,grt4 ,n[ :at ! hell
d y d8 ,i ?"\4 ,h[ d y get d[n8 ,h[ w y get d[n ! ridge8 ,tripp+ on a
crampon /rap or los+ my bal.e on ! way up wd probably m1n fall+ 96! slope1
b fall+ on ! way d[n wd m1n a n9e-?\s&-foot h1d-ov]-h1ls tum#1 my 5tire
rope t1m dra7+ al;g 2h me4 ,z ,i ?"\ ( t grue"s image1 te>s =m$ 9 my eyes &
immly froze 6my eyela%es4 ,!n ,jeff notic$ h[ quiet ,i 0 & ask$ me :at 0
wr;g4 8,i'm worri$ ab gett+ d[n ! ridge10 ,i sd4 8,i'm worri$ ,i'll d "s?+
/upid40 ,!n "ey"o ga!r$ >.d me1 putt+ _! h&s on my %\ld]s4 8,we'll get
d[n10 ,*ris sd1 & "s?+ 9 8 voice made me 2lieve hm 9/antly4 ,! 3c5tr,n game
2gan ag & ,i c>e;lly l[]$ ea* foot 96! froz5 boot holes 9 front ( me1 "k+ t
all ( \r lives dep5d$ on an ac;n s seem+ly simple4 ,! t]ra9 2gan 6flatt5 \1
br++ me \ ( my tr.e4 8,h[ m* f>!r until ! 5d (! ridge80 ,i ask$ ,*ris4
8,boy1 y pass$ ! ridge tw5ty m9utes ago10 he answ]$4

,six h\rs lat] we /um#d acr ! sev5te5-?\s&-foot bas9 at ! foot (!
,autobahn4 ,i tripp$ 9 "o (! deep boot holes & fell facefir/ 9 ! sn[4 ,"k+
we 7 s close 6camp1 ,i j lay "! moan+ & lau<+4 ,jeff & ,sam foll[$ my l1d1
collaps+ 9 ! sn[ z well4 ,we 7 all moan+ & call+ \ 9 pa!tic voices1 8,*ris1
help u up4 ,we c't g any f>!r4 ,*ris1 y're my h]o40 ,*ris1 "k+ we 7 \ (
dang]1 & feel+ "sh[ reliev$ f ! responsibil;y ( l1d+1 unti$ hmf f ! rope &
rac$ 5]getic,y t[>d camp z if he _h =gott5 ! fifte5 h\rs ( 3/ant move;t4
8,y boys >e ! sorrie/ excuse = climb]s t ,i've "e se510 he yell$ z he
motor$ away4 ,tw5ty m9utes lat] we /a7]$ 96camp4 ,i lay on my belly 9 !
sn[1 my body 2y exhaus;n1 n ev5 feel+ ! temp]ature t _h dropp$ =ty degrees
9 ! la/ h\r4

,lat]1 sitt+ 9 ! igloo >.d a pot ( freeze-dri$ spa<etti1 ,*ris load$ \r
b[ls4 8,gotta eat10 he sd4 8,we've got a d1? m>* 9 ! morn+40 ,z ,i pil$ !
la/ spoon;l 96my m\?1 my wa/$ body reject$ x & ,i gave ! :ole m1l back 6!
m.ta9 gods4 ,x lay 9 a pile 9 front (! 5tr.eway1 qkly freez+ 96a rock-h>d
m.d 9 ! sn[4 ,sam 0 s tir$1 he only sd1 8,w[1 look at all ! colors 9 x40
,2c (! m.d's loc,n1 ea* ( my t1m wd h 6crawl "? x 6escape ! igloo4 ,jeff 0
! brave/1 or p]h 8 exhaus;n \twei<$ 8 revul.n4 ,he crawl$ tir$ly "? &
4appe>$4 ,sam 0 next1 tak+ a deep br1? & scurry+ qkly "? x4 ,f9,y only
,*ris & ,i rema9$4 8,i'm sorry10 ,i sd4 8,f/ y drag me 6! top & !n ,i ?r[
up 9 yr igloo40 ,*ris 0 sil5t1 sitt+ a few feet acr f me4 ,!n he spoke z if
he _hn't he>d me4 8,y're all "r1 ,big ;,e40

8,b /10 ,i repli$1 kick+ my boot ag/ ! cru/y m.d 9 ! 5tr.eway4 ,!n ,*ris
r1*$ acr ! igloo & slapp$ 8 glov$ h& ag/ my %\ld]4 8,any"o10 he sd1 8:o /&s
on ! top ( ,nor? ,am]ica1 ,i'll crawl "? 8 puke any "d10 & he dropp$ 96!
doorway & 0 g"o4 ,!n ,i 0 al"o1 ! ev5ts (! "d flood+ 96my tir$ bra94 ,!
igloo walls 5velop$ me 9 a mu6l$ sil;e1 &a feel+ ( s* 9t5s;y swept ov] me t
,i cd feel my body %ak+4 ,i _h only /ood on ! summit =a few m9utes1 b !
exp]i;e _h =g$ xf 96me1 m p[];l ?an any memory1 fus+ s ti<t t x 0 impossi#
64t+ui% me f x4 ,i cd / feel ! bla/+ w9d1 ! /orms1 &! /a7]+ly l;g "ds4 ,i
cd feel x all1 f ! bumpy plane ride in1 6! imm5se op5;s (! summit1 & x 0
all )9 me1 *ang+ my life ="e1 no l;g] a dr1m b fle% & b"o & blood4 ,i _h
n"e "kn1 n"e truly "kn1 t ? awe"s place cd exi/ 9side me4

,x _h tak5 u n9ete5 "ds 6climb ,d5ali1 & j two "ds 6desc5d4 ,*ris 0 "r2 x 0
a d1? m>*4 ,we desc5d$ "? ! next "d & "? ! ni<t & "? ! next "d ag1 -+ d[n !
n>r[ ridge 2l \r sev5te5-?\s&-foot camp1 slid+ d[n ! fix$ l9es on ! /eep
sn[ face (! buttress prop]1 "? ! crevasse fields 2l f\rte5 ?\s& feet1 & >.d
w9dy corn]1 d[n ,motorcycle & ,ski ,hill & f9,y acr ! 5d.s flats 2l base
camp4 ,! joy ( />t+ a ,d5ali climb is t y immly cruise d[n a ?\s& foot hill
call$ ,he>tbr1k ,hill4 ,ironic,y ! mis]y ( 5d+ a ,d5ali climb is t v same
hill1 ! o!r way4 8,? doesn't seem l m* (a hill10 ,i sd 6,*ris on ! way d[n4
,he respond$ )a lau< & no?+ m1 z if ! pun* l9e 0 m* too funny 6wa/e on s* a
t5d]foot z me4

,at ! bottom ( ,he>tbr1k ,hill1 ) my sixty-p.d backpack gr9d+ 96my sple51 &
ano!r fifty p.ds ( tra% dra7+ 2h me on my sl$1 ,i f9,y "u/ood ,*ris's
secret & hope.sly tragic joke4 ,9 ord] 6cat* ! ,cessna plane1 \r h1v5ly l9k
6civiliz,n1 9 ord] 6eat pepp]oni pizza & dr9k be]s1 9 ord] 6take a hot ba?
& sleep "u cl1n %eets1 we'd h 6climb t damn hill4 ,! :ole t1m 0 sp5t1
creep+ pa9;lly up ! hill1 except1 ( c\rse1 = ,*ris4 8,damn x1 boys1 ! la/
plane's at ei<t o'c1 & we're gonna 2 on x4 ,we got a half an h\r 6make x up
? pig1 s1 mu%60 ,%u6l+ =w>d1 we he>d a fa9t s.d drift+ d[n f a ?\s& feet
abv u4 ,! la/ ?ree weeks _h prep>$ me = all sorts ( weird s.ds3 4tant
avalan*es1 w9d :i/l+ acr ! upp] m.ta91 ev5 e>?quakes1 b ? "o didn't s.d l
any ( ^?4 ,9 fact1 x s.d$ human1 & n j "o or two humans1 b a :ole *oir4 ,!y
w]5't exactly talk+ or yell+ or ev5 s++1 b *ant+ "s?+ ov] & ov]4 ,i 0 s
curi\s 6le>n ! s\rce (! ba6l+ human s.d1 ,i pu%$ my ravag$ body a ll fa/]
up ! hill4 ,halfway up1 ! voices 2came l\d] & cle>]4 ,a *orus ( p *ant$
8,hip hip hurray6 ,hip hip hurray60 ,!n ev5 ! voices 7 famili>4 ,x rem9d$
me ( my wre/l+ "ds1 :5 my "f wd take ! e>ly tra9 home f ,new ,york ,c;y1
>riv+ 9 ! gymnasium mo;ts 2f my mat*4 ,z ,i walk$ \ onto ! mat 6face my
oppon5t1 ,i'd he> 8 deep ex-,m>9e voice call+ \ ov] ! re/ (! fans1 8,gd
luck4 ,g get 'em60

,! voices float+ d[n 6me f ! top ( ,he>tbr1k ,hill 7 my family's4 ,i cdn't
pick \ any "o ( !m 9dividu,y1 b ev5 tgr1 !y 7 z unmistaka# 6me z ! ?ick
metal ice ax ,i _h be5 hold+ 9 my h& =! la/ ?ree weeks4 ,!y m/ h made !
d1?-defy+ fli<t acr ! ,alaska ,range 6meet me at base camp4 ,i 0 smil+ n[1
pu%+ on ev5 fa/]1 ignor+ ! gr9d+ pa9 9 my back & ?i<s &! fact t ,i 0 s9k+
6my knees 9 s(t sn[4 ,!n ,i he>d ,m>k's voice ah1d ( me4 8,:at ! hell is
x80 ,he 0 look+ at tw5ty-"o "ds ( be>d & fil?4 ,& ,$di reply+1 8,i ?9k x's
! ,sasquat*40

8,gd job1 ll bro!r10 ,m>k sd4

8,y1h1 awe"s job1 ll bro10 ,$di second$4 ,!n !y 7 on bo? sides ( me1 & ,m>k
sd1 8,grab 8 pack1 ,$di4 ,i'll get ? side40 ,su45ly1 my pack & sl$ 7
wei<t.s2 ev5 my feet b>ely skimm$ acr ! top (! sn[1 & we all mov$ =w>d1 my
two bodybuild] bro!rs lift+ me up 0my hip belt4

,at base camp we all 5joy$ a "py (a life"t4 ,"ey"o 0 h&$ a slu%y be]1 dug
up f ,*ris's secret buri$ /a%4 ,m>k op5$ a bottle ( *ampagne & spray$ x all
ov] me1 ! /icky liquid j "o m lay] ov] ! sw1t & grime4 ,base ,camp ,annie
%>$ h] priz$ /a% ( grape ,kool-,aid4 ,! be/ "p 0 he>+ ,ellie's s(t foot/eps
"? ! sn[ & h] voice1 cat*+ 9 h] ?roat1 & r1*+ \ 6take h] ?9 h&s1 wrapp$ 9
fleece mitt5s4 ,%e _h br"\ ,oreo cookies & *ocolate milk1 bett] ?an any?+
else ,i've "e ta/$4 ,& :5 we return$ home1 ,liz ,greco1 f ! ,am]ican ,f.d,n
=! ,bl1 told u ! /range co9cid;e3 \r summit date ( ,june #bg? j happ5$ 6be
,hel5 ,kell]'s bir?"d4
