#g
,flail+ 6,9dep5d;e

,9 ! fall my dad drove me up 6,bo/on ,college4 8,? wd h be5 a pr\d "d = yr
"m10 my dad sd4

8,rememb] h[ %e cri$ :5 ,$di left80 ,i ask$1 & su45ly ,i 0 j1l\s ( ,$di1 2c
at l1/ %e _h be5 alive 6see hm graduate hi< s*ool & cry :5 he left =
college4

,af my dad left1 ,i survey$ my dorm room4 ,wiz>d & ,i _h gott5 ! only s+le
room on ! f/ floor1 a six-foot-by-twelve-foot h&icap room1 -pris$ (a s+le
b$1 small wood5 desk1 & s9k4 ,! /range & emb>rass+ "p (! room1 h["e1 0 !
l>ge /all & sw++ door : h\s$ an extra-tall :eel*air a3essi# toilet1 z if ,i
7 go+ 6be h1d+ 9 "! 6d numb] two )a few frs hang+ \ on ! o!r side4 ,t afn z
,i unpack$ my clo!s & li/5$ 6o!r /ud5ts gett+ settl$ & meet+ roommates1 ,i
0 fill$ 0a bl5d ( expectancy & l"oli;s4 ,9 hi< s*ool my frs _h "kn me :5 ,i
0 si<t$4 ,!y _h "kn my family1 my "m1 & ab h] d1?4 ,!y _h "kn my pa/1 my
pres5t1 &! massive *anges t _h g"o 2t1 b n[1 ,i r1liz$1 ,i 0 2g9n+ a new
life z a bl p]son4

,i 0 "o ( ?ree bl /ud5ts \ ( t5 ?\s&1 s ,i 0 easily id5tifia#1 cruis+ >.d
campus ) ,wiz1 b ! same 4t9c;n : drew p 6me al kept me a"p4 ,2f class 9 !
lecture hall1 9 ! book/ore1 at ! /ud5t union1 pe]s 3/antly /opp$ me 6ask
"qs ab ,wiz & ab 2+ bl4 ,i felt l a k9d ( bl ambassador4 ,:at !y didn't "k
0 t ,i _h only be5 play+ ? role = five %ort ye>s1 & ,i didn't "k _m (!
rules yet2 nor 0 x a role ,i ev5 want$ 6play4 ,x 0 s easy1 h["e1 6talk ab
,wiz1 6make jokes ab 2+ bl1 :5 ,i desp]ately want$ 6move 2y ? v5e] & 4t+ui%
myf 9 "s deep] way4 ,e>ly 96! ye>1 ,i hit ! wei<t room e "d until ,i cd
b5*-press #cae p.ds1 & ,i practic$ ! dr9k+ game ( 8qu>t]s0 until ,i cd roll
! qu>t] (f ! bridge ( my nose1 h x b\nce (f ! ta# & 96! small cup ( be]1 b
n"o ( ? felt l 5\<4

,a few mon?s 96! s*ool ye>1 z ,i "w$ 6le>n my way >.d ! huge campus &
6a3limate 6all my new classes1 ,i 2gan 6feel a *ronic a*e 9 my left eye4
,"s"ts1 af class1 ,i lay on my b$ ) my palm press$ ag/ my eye1 roll+ back &
=? 9 pa94 ,my left eye1 : _h g"o bl ye>s 2f my "r1 al 2gan 6turn grayi%
:ite & bulge \1 ) t9y bli/]s appe>+ on ! surface4 ,:5 ! pa9 grew s bad x
9t]f]$ ) /udy+1 "w+ \1 & ev5 sitt+ "? class1 ,i f9,y w5t 6see ,dr4
,brockhur/1 :o told me ! eye _h develop$ glaucoma4 ,9 a normal eye1 9t]nal
fluid circulates "? ! eyeball1 pass+ "? ! membrane (! eye's surface4 ,!
fluid gives pressure 6! eye & gives x %ape1 b 9 my eye1 cat>acts _h block$
! fluid's exit1 trapp+ x 9side ! eyeball4 ,dr4 ,brockhur/ te/$ ! pressure 9
my eye )a small tube ag/ ! surface4 ,! av]age eye has ab ei<te5 p.ds (
9t]nal fluid pressure2 ev5 ?\< ! numb]s on ! ma*9e w5t 6n9ety p.ds1 !
pressure 9 my left eye regi/]$ (f ! *>ts4 ,he describ$ my eye l a balloon t
_h be5 9flat$ z ti<tly z x wd g4 8,ev5tu,y10 he sd1 8! walls (! balloon wd
2come v ?9 & ev5tu,y a hole wd appe> : wd collapse ! balloon 5tirely40 ,i
grimly imag9$ my eye z a sun1 exp&+ 6a sup]nova & !n collaps+ 9 on xf1
%r9k+ 96a r$ dw>f4 8,! mo/ logical c\rse10 he sd1 0 6h my eye 8enucl1t$10 :
m1nt 6h x remov$4 ,af s*$ul+ ! surg]y1 t ni<t ,i w5t \ ) "s frs & sat at a
b> dr9k+ be]s4 ,nobody b me knew ! ev5+ 0 a f>ewell "py4 ,i f.d myf r1*+ up
& t\*+ my eye "? ! lid & ?9k+ ab x no l;g] 2+ "!4

,a week lat] ,i *eck$ 96,massa*usetts ,eye & ,e>4 ,z ! nurse :eel$ me 96!
op]at+ room1 my body %ook4 ,my "f1 :o _h driv5 up f ,3necticut1 walk$ 2s u
) 8 h& on my >m1 z f> z he 0 all[$ 6g1 & afws1 :5 ,i 0 roll$ \ ag1 ,i
rememb] ! vague s5s,n ( 8 h& / on my >m4 ,he lat] told me he 0 a ll sc>$ :5
he f/ saw my <o/-:ite face &! top ( my h1d hi45 0m.ds ( b&ages & gauze4 ,z
,i sl[ly drift$ t[>d 3sci\s;s1 ,i dr1m$ t ! pa9 0 s 9t5se ,i want$ 6cry1 b
4cov]$ ,i cdn't 2c ,i _h no eyes 6cry f1 & :5 ,i did awake1 ! pa9 0
all-3sum+1 l a hot piece ( coal jamm$ 96my socket4 ,i cd s5se my "f's
worry1 s \ ( place -p>$ 6his normal gung-ho attitude1 s ,i sd 9 a dry ho>se
:isp]1 8,don't worry4 ,x'll get bett]40

,only a few "ds af ! surg]y ,*ris came up f ,3necticut1 ": he 0 att5d+
,fairfield ,univ]s;y1 6*e] me up4 ,all ,i want$ 6d 0 lie >.d1 moan 9 pa91 &
pop my regim5 ( h1vy n>cotic pa9kill]s1 b 9 my dru7$ /ate1 he "sh[ p]suad$
me 6g \ 6a -$y club4 ,b\nc+ ov] ,bo/on's cob#/"o /reets 9 ,*ris's c> 0 an
agoniz+ ord1l2 ,i alr want$ 6g home4 ,recl9+ 9 ! pass5g] s1t1 ,i felt !
l>ge bulky eye gu>d ov] my socket1 held ti<t 0a wad ( b&ages wrapp$ >.d !
top half ( my h1d l a mummy4 8,i feel a ll self-3sci\s10 ,i sd 6,*ris4

8,y'll 2 f9e10 he sd1 glanc+ ov] at me a c\ple ( "ts1 & ,i knew he 0 />+ at
my b&ages4 8,i'm n lett+ ? opportun;y pass u by10 he 3t9u$4 8,n only d we h
,wiz 6attract ! babes b n[ !y'll love me too4 ,at ! club1 if y cd drool a
ll1 we'll tell 'em t ,i'm ! nice volunte] :o's tak5 y \ (! asylum =!
week5d40 ,at ! -$y club ,*ris /rategic,y sat u front r[ c5t]4 ,a few ^ws
96! -$ian's r\t9e1 he /opp$ d1d1 look$ /rai<t at me1 & 9 a 4gu/$ voice1 sd
ov] ! microph"o1 8,h[ d y expect me 6d -$y ) ? mutant 9 ! front r[80 ,i
imag9$ all ! -$ians talk+ 9 ! back room4 8,*>ley1 x'll 2 an easy ni<t4
,we've got a mutant 9 ! front r[40 ,*ris practic,y *ok$1 he lau<$ s h>d1
&=! next ?ree acts1 ,i provid$ gl>+ly obvi\s -ic mat]ial4


,f9,y ! pat* came (f & an ocul>i/ fit me )a pros!tic eye4 ,x wasn't glass1
b a liquid pla/ic t he pu%$ 96my eye socket1 & :5 x h>d5$ 6! %ape (!
socket1 he pluck$ x \4 ,! eye 0 oval %ap$3 r.d 9 ! front & 3cave 9 ! back4
,! ocul>i/ />$ at my "r eye =a half an h\r & !n pa9t$ ! pros!tic eye 6mat*
! o!r4 ,!n he lay]$ ! top ) an acrylic 6protect ! color4 ,:5 ,i left x felt
l a giant h1vy m># jamm$ ti<tly 2h my lids1 b ov] a few "ds1 ! =eign feel+
w5t away & ,i didn't notice ! pros!tic4

,s9ce s*ool 2gan ,i _h %i$ away f directly fac+ p1 afraid !y wd gawk at my
gray bulgy eye4 ,i _h ev5 2gun 6we> sunglasses1 an act ,i _h once be5
adamantly ag/ 2c ,i 3sid]$ x a 8bl ?+10 b n[ ,i jump$ at ! *.e 6/>e d[n any
pass]by4 ,i especi,y want$ 6impress ,sue1 a girl :o liv$ up/airs f me & on
:om ,i _h a major cru%4 ,my plan 0 6knock on h] door & casu,y ask h] \ :ile
try+ 6look h] 9 ! eyes ) my br&-new1 gl1m+1 vividly color;l eyeball4 ,i
took ! elevator 6h] floor & mov$ "? ! w9d+ hallway t[>d h] door4 ,z ,i
turn$ ! la/ corn]1 ,i t\*$ my pros!tic 6make sure x wasn't crook$1 b m/ h
ru2$ x too h>d1 2c x popp$ \1 & 6my horror1 ,i he>d x b\nce "s": on !
floor4 ,!n1 l 9 a bad ;,b-rat$ movie1 ,i he>d ! elevator door op54 ,p 7
talk+ & lau<+4 ,ev5 worse1 am;g ! voices 0 ,sue's1 draw+ clos] 0! second4
,i 0 on my knees1 my h& frantic,y scann+ ! floor =! small eye4 ,z %e r.d$ !
corn]1 my h& t\*$ ! small pla/ic circle1 snat*$ x up1 & plu7$ x back 96my
socket4 ,j 2f ris+1 ,i he>d ,sue's v 3fus$ voice4 8,]ik6 ,:at >e y do+ on !
floor8 ,>e y okay80 ,x's probably unnec 6m5;n t ,i n"e got a date ) ,sue4

,) girls n "w+ \ 6my satisfac;n1 ,i ?rew myf 96my /udies4 ,i 0 fasc9at$
0remote cultures >.d ! _w4 ,my fre%man hi/ory class 0 focus+ on ! ,9ca
,empire1 : _h />t$ >.d ,a4,d4 #adfj & _h exp&$ rapidly \ f ,cuzco1 ,p]u
6ov] m* ( ,s\? ,am]ica4 ,9 few] ?an "o hundr$ ye>s1 ! empire _h cr1t$ a va/
net"w ( roads twi/+ "? ! jungles & m.ta9s 6transport gds & culture 6ov]
twelve million ,9cas4 ,all ? 5d$ )! 3que/ ( ,spani% ,3qui/adors 9 ! late
fifte5 hundr$s1 b "o remote 5clave1 hi45 on a hi< m.ta9 sa4le at ei<t ?\s&
feet & protect$ on bo? sides 0hi< p1ks1 0 n"e 4cov]$ 0! ,spani%4 ,my/]i\sly
ab&on$ 0! ,9cas1 x lay =gott5 9 ! hi< jungle = ?ree hundr$ ye>s4 ,? 0 !
royal c;y ( ,ma*u ,pic*u4

,hiram ,b+ham1 an an?ropologi/ & adv5tur]1 :o m/ h be5 ! 9spir,n 2h !
fic;nal "* ,9diana ,j"os1 rediscov]$ ! pre-,columbian ru9s 9 #aiaa4 ,)a
small ,que*ua boy z a guide1 he hik$ ov] a m.ta9 pass & />$ d[n on mile af
mile ( /"o ru9s1 built ^u hundr$s ( t]races & l9k$ 0?\s&s ( /eps4 ,x m/ h
seem$ 6hm z ?\< he _h /epp$ \ (! =w>d mo;n ( "t & 96a r1lm : /ood magic,y /
ag/ ! c5turies4


,"e s9ce my mom di$1 my dad _h be5 look+ 6take a summ] trip t wd br+ u
clos] tgr ag1 ev5 ?\< we 7 4p]s$ up & d[n ! ,ea/ ,coa/1 f ,ma9e 6,florida4
,at ,*ri/mas1 :5 "ey"o 0 home1 & af all ! pres5ts 7 op5$1 ! 3v]s,n turn$ 6!
family vac,n4 8,h[ 'b\t a ll hike80 ,i su7e/$4

8,":80 ,m>k ask$ suspici\sly4

8,i don't "k ''' ,p]u maybe40

,i pull$ \ ! bro*ure ,i _h ord]$1 & my dad l1f$ "? x4 8,9ca ,trail10 ,i sd4
8,x's on page twelve40

,! bro*ure r1d1 8,a di6icult physical *all5ge ov] sev5 "ds1 mov+ amid/ !
/-exi/+ remote & primitive culture (! ,que*ua ,9dians4 ,we'll le>n ! facts
& leg5ds (! ,9cas & -e acr ru9s ( villages1 temples1 & mess5g]s' re/ /ops t
y c't see any o!r way except on foot40

,"! 0 a dialogue ) ,sobek1 ! adv5ture -pany organiz+ ! trek1 ab ! risks
9volv$ =a bl p]son4 ,no bl p]son _h "e trekk$ ! ,9ca ,trail1 9 ! tw5tie?
c5tury at l1/1 b af le>n+ ab my su3ess ) wre/l+ & rock climb+1 ,sobek made
an a6irmative deci.n4 ,!y wd welcome me4

,! ,9ca ,trail 2g9s at ,cusco1 ! old ,9ca capital at elev5 ?\s& feet1 !
olde/ 3t9u\s c;y 9 ! ,am]icas4 ,=! f/ few "ds we g5],y foll[$ ! fa/-fl[+
,rio ,urubamba1 : s5t cool mi/ sprays 96! air4 ,! trail rose up a ?\s& feet
or m abv ! riv] 2f roll+ back d[n ag4 ,\r gr\p trekk$ ei<t 6t5 h\rs ea* "d4
,at ! hi<] altitudes1 ! morn+s 2gan cold1 b 0noon1 ! 9t5se h1t (! sun bak$
! trail1 : !n 0 *urn$ 96du/ 0pass+ tra9s ( alpacas c>ry+ loads4

,my dad & ,i "w$ tgr4 ,dad walk$ a half /ep 2h me1 8 left h& >.d my neck1 )
h& pressures /e]+ me "r or left 2t rocks & trees1 >.d wat]1 onto bridges1
:at"e4 ,i us$ a ?9 :ite cane1 : 3/antly prob$ ! >ea directly 9 front ( me4
,"! 0 3/ant -munic,n f my dad 6me4 8,giant rock on ! left4 ,%>p "r & ov] a
tree limb4 ,big /ep up onto a rock4 ,gravel rocks1 slipp]y40 ,i _h 6take e
/ep ) utmo/ cau;n1 brac+ my legs & ankles = any sli<t 9cl9e or drop1 or =a
small rock or root on ! ru7$ trail4 ,& 2c ! v]bal 9/ruc;ns cd only 2 a
guide1 :5 my foot l&$1 ,i _h 6tot,y rebal.e x =! next /ep4 ,x 0 an
excruciat+ly tir+ way ( mov+4 ,recogniz+ ! di6iculty ( trekk+ = l;g h\rs
)\t 2+ a# 6see :at 0 ah1d1 ,dad al flood$ me ) 9=m,n1 : broke ! climb 96m9i
goals4 8,sli<t 9cl9e =! next hundr$ y>ds4 ,flat & easy1 five m9utes acr a
m1d[4 ,climb+ rocks1 maybe fifte5 feet up4 ,re/ place t5 m9utes ah1d4 ,i c
see x f "h40

,m1n:ile ,m>k & ,$di want$ 6move fa/] ?an my dad & me4 ,:5 ! trail 0 cle>1
!y (t5 ran 6! top (! next ridge1 !n sat & wait$ = u 6cat* up2 _! way (
signal+ t ! climb 0 a piece ( cake = !m4 ,natur,y1 ,i want$ 6move fa/ & 2
c>efree ) my old] bro!rs1 9/1d ( 9*+ & fl.d]+ al;g ) my dad's h& >.d my
neck4 ,at a re/ /op1 ) my dad (f fill+ wat] bottles1 ,m>k gave me a r
unflatt]+ descrip;n ( my dad's hik+ attire4 ,? new image ( ,dad didn't m*
help ! "pn]%ip4 ,6cov] miles ( di6icult m.ta9\s t]ra91 my dad wore :ite
t5nis %oes ) smoo? bald tr1ds & cotton crew socks pull$ up hi< >.d 8
calves4 ,:5 x ra9$1 he 0 prep>$ )a see-"? pla/ic pon*o1 pur*as$ = 4#b.ii at
,km>t4 ,6-bat ! h1t1 grime1 & du/ (! "d1 he wore a patriotic r$1 :ite1 &
blue b&ana >.d 8 neck4 ,& 6elim9ate a bad burn on 8 r %9y scalp1 ,dad wore
a canvas hat )a wide1 floppy brim4 ,he al /opp$ frequ5tly 6film ! sc5]y >.d
u3 *n sell+ ,9ca ,soda al;g ! way1 graz+ alpacas1 & crumbl+ ru9s 2s !
trail4 ,:ile film+1 he'd sp1k 9 a sl[ delib]ate voice4 8,we >e view+ !
rema9s (a rock t[] on : ,9ca w>riors /ood wat* =! approa*+ 5emy4 ,! local p
call ? /ructure ,8! ,wat*+ ,t[]40'0 ,! wor/ 0 :5 he'd scamp] a few y>ds
ah1d ( me & film me approa*+4 8,we >e wat*+ ,]ik negotiate 8 way d[n !
rocky trail4 ,notice 8 excell5t cane te*nique & 8 c>e;l foot"w z he posi;ns
ea* new foot = maximum bal.e40 ,:5 ,i he>d ! hum (! cam]a film+1 ) ea* /ep1
,i po9t$ my toes1 lift$ !m hi< 9 ! air1 & twirl$ !m grace;lly 2f sett+ !m
d[n4

,i 0 3/antly pu%+ my dad 6g fa/]1 b 8 role 0 a tir+ "o too4 ,he 0 (t5 half
(f ! trail1 "o >m /ret*+ up or d[n 6r1* my neck1 ! o!r hold+ 8 tru/y video
cam]a4 ,he mov$ at 8 limit1 especi,y :5 we left ! riv] & climb$ onto hi<]
gr.d4 ,! trail 2came /eep]1 m n>r[1 &)a sev]e drop-(f on "o side or ! o!r4
,at ! 5d ( "o "picul>ly l;g "d1 :5 \r legs 7 tir$ & foot+ 0 n s sure1 my
dad1 wat*+ my feet1 /epp$ on a loose rock & tum#d d[n ! side (! trail4 ,i
he>d bell[+ noises z he fell1 l a c[ mi<t s.d :5 /uck 9 ! mud4 ,:5 he f9,y
/opp$1 he bru%$ hmf (f & trudg$1 hu6+ & pu6+1 up ! embank;t 6! trail4
,r1liz+ he wasn't hurt1 ,i lau<$ & sd1 8,dad1 y're k9d (a klutz40 ,b a few
m9utes lat] x 0 my turn4 ,9 a n>r[ sec;n1 ,i /epp$ on loose1 slop+ gravel &
b\nc$ d[n ! side embank;t1 my dad b\nc+ on 8 belly 2h me1 8 "o h& clut*+ a
wad ( my ;,t-%irt1 ! o!r / hold+ 8 video cam]a hi< 9 ! air4 ,m>k & ,$di1 )a
pla9 view ( u f _! vantage po9t atop ! next rise1 lau<$ & slapp$ _! knees4
,s9ce ,dad & ,i 7 alr tir$1 ! sl[ /eep crawl up 6! trail1 )! s.d ( mock+
applause 9 ! 4t.e1 0 any?+ b funny4

,z ! "d wore on1 cuts & bruises -p.d$ \r tir$;s1 & \r pati;e wan$4 ,af !
next tum#1 ,i sd angrily1 8,dad1 y pull$ me "r (f ! trail40

8,]ik1 d y "k ,i c't ev5 get "o foot on ! trail80

8,f9e60 ,i sd4 8,let's j keep go+40

8,f9e ) me10 my dad sd4

,=! re/ (! afn my dad gave crisp direc;ns & ,i foll[$ !m c>e;lly b sil5tly4

,:5 ! "d 0 f9,y "?1 & we'd wa%$ 9 a ne>by /r1m1 satisfi$ \r ?ir/1 &
repl5i%$ \r bellies1 ,i sat al"o feel+ t]ri#4 ,my dad _h eag]ly g"o al;g )
my idea 6-e 6,p]u4 ,he cd h be5 ambl+ al;g at 8 [n pace1 5joy+ ! b1uti;l
sc5]y & film+ e *1 alpaca1 & rock t[] 6his he>t's 3t5t1 b 9/1d he _h d"o 8
be/ 6/e] me & talk me "? a maze ( un5d+ ob/acles4 ,i alm cri$ :5 ,i ?"\ ab
h[ selfi% ,i _h be5 & h[ ,i _h made 8 alr di6icult job ev5 m di6icult4 ,2f
retir+ 96\r t5ts1 ,i %u6l$ >.d 9 ! dirt ne> my dad & !n sd halt+ly1 8,sorry
ab ? afn4 ,i "k y 7 do+ yr be/40

8,i'm sorry ,i got angry10 my dad repli$4 8,i 0 j a ll tir$40

,z ,i knelt d[n 9 front ( my t5t & unzipp$ ! door1 ,i cd / he> my dad's
br1?+ ne>by4 8,i hope y're hav+ a gd "t10 ,i sd4

8,a grt "t10 he answ]$ happily4 8,i ?9k ,i got "s r1l gd footage td40

,! next morn+1 9 ! e>ly w>m? (! sun1 my dad woke u all up ) 8 typical
8,wake up1 boys1 & smell t fre% air4 ,rise & %9e l ! morn+ sun60

,m>k respond$ grumpily )1 8,rise & %9e l an alpaca's butt40

,my dad's bravado re/$ a ll %y (! pret5d bugle play+ ( \r *ildhood4 ,we 7
old] n[1 ,$di & ,i "y m51 & ,m>k 9 8 late tw5ties4 ,my dad figur$1 "rly s1
8 bugle play+ mi<t prompt ,m>k 6back up 8 wise-ass responses )a fly+ pile (
alpaca dung4

,ev5tu,y1 af -plet+ ?ree m.ta9 passes 9 five "ds1 ! hi<e/ at alm f\rte5
?\s& feet1 we desc5d$ ! ?\s&s ( /"o /eps 96,ma*u ,pic*u4 ,"s /eps1 laid 0!
,9cas s _m ye>s ago1 7 s /eep & brok5 up1 ,i sat d[n on my butt &
crab-walk$ d[n4 ,f ? 5tr.eway1 a gap 9 ! m.ta9 call$ ! ,gate (! ,sun1 ,i cd
he> ! huge valley op5 2l me &1 6my surprise1 "s two ?\s& feet away1 ,i
actu,y he>d ! lau<t] & yells ( t\ri/s explor+ ! slopes 2l4 ,we sp5t ! "d at
! ru9s1 appreciat+ ! ,9cas' sophi/icat$ id1s & te*nology4 ,! temples 7
built s s.dly1 ,i cdn't squeeze a f+]nail in-2t ! granite /"os4 ,ma*u
,pic*u 0 an explor]'s p>adise1 & ,i ?"\ ( my "m1 ( ,h;g ,k;g & o!r
romantic1 exotic places t _h 9spir$ ^? :o _h /um#d ^u !m =! f/ "t4

,! ,9ca ,trail 2gan a tradi;n 9 my family4 ,ea* summ] we 3t9u$ 6visit
remote "ps (! _w1 usu,y 9 ! m.ta9s1 ": local p >e / relatively unt\*$
0mod]n civiliz,n4 ,sadly = my dad1 ! baton z my trekk+ "pn] pass$ 6,m>k =
r1sons ( 8 amaz+ agil;y & m* grt] 5dur.e4 ,m>k & ,i qkly develop$ 96an
e6ici5t t1m4 ,we cd n[ pu% on m* fa/]1 z ,m>k gave me ! smoo? mi4le trail
6walk on :ile he took ! /eep $ge (! m.ta91 n"e falt]+4 ,s9ce \r f/ trip
6,ma*u ,pic*u1 ! treks 2came ev5 m di6icult2 we cross$ ! s"eal-mile-wide
,bolt]a ,glaci] 9 ! ,k>akoram range 9 ,paki/an1 ! l>ge/ glaci] 9 ,asia1
l1p+ f "o huge b\ld] 6ano!r1 ) black ice cr1t+ an extra haz>d = u ! :ole
way4 ,(t5 x 0 ,m>k's jump+ abil;y t help$ get u 6\r next rock1 & 8 /r;g
hold on me t kept u "!4 ,tgr we develop$ \r [n hik+ language2 8baby goat
trail0 m1nt a trail )a drop-(f on "o or bo? sides1 9 : ,i _h 6place "o foot
directly 9 front (! o!r4 8,%9-bu/]0 m1nt protrud+ rock 9 ! trail2 & di6]5t
balls--football1 basketball--describ$ ! size (! rocks ah1d4

,al? \r "ds 7 sp5t trekk+ ov] "s (! mo/ b1uti;l & remote regions (! _w1 !
ni<ts (t5 rival$ ! m.ta9 exp]i;e4 ,9 ! remote villages ( nor!rn ,spa91
,m>k1 ,$di1 & ,i visit$ ! local cant9as4 ,late 96! ni<t & af s"eal samples
(! local spic$ w9e1 ,i wat*$ ,m>k make hmf at home at a ta# ( villag]s4
,soon ,m>k &! local patrons 7 all s++ & lau<+ & sway+ back & =? ) _! >ms
>.d %\ld]s z if !y _h be5 frs = decades4 ,af s"eal m toa/s1 my two
bodybuild] bro!rs1 :o dw>f$ me & "ey"o else1 2gan danc+ 6! exotic local
music1 ) me 9 ! mi4le1 sw++ my 5tire body back & =?4 ,f/ ,m>k wd hook my
elb[ ) his1 sp9 me >.d1 & catapult me acr ! d.e floor 6,$di1 ^: elb[ wd
cat* me1 sp9 me >.d1 & catapult me back4 ,_! s-call$ d.e ) _! ll bro!r
3t9u$ "? a doz5 s;gs1 & ,i felt l ,i 0 ! victim (a midget-toss+ 3te/1 b\nc+
f ,$di 6,m>k1 & ,m>k 6,$di4 ,x 0 well 96! e>ly morn+ 2f ,i f.d myf /umbl+
96b$1 my dad roll+ ov] & grumbl+ "s?+ ab ! "d's h>d trek ah1d4

,m>k /ay$ up ev5 lat] ?an ,$di & me1 & at dawn1 f my w9d[1 ,i he>d \r
guides dra7+ my /umbl+1 boi/]\s bro!r 96! refugio4 ,m>k's l\d voice e*o$ "?
! quiet /reets4 ,! guides _h f.d ,m>k 9 ! b> hitt+ on a local's girlfr4 ,!y
_h br"\ hm home 2f x 0 too late4 8,am]icano loco10 !y sd1 roll+ _! eyes4

,:ile 9 ! m.ta9s1 af see+ me hike1 local villag]s & %eph]ds wond]$1 (t5
al\d1 :y a bl p]son wd *oose 6subject hmf 6s* mis]y1 & ?"\ me an o4;y4 ,!
guides :o wat*$ ,m>k & me "w "d af "d m>vel$ at \r t1m"w1 b !y 7 mo/
impress$ 0,m>k's 9cr$i# att5;n & pati;e4 8,! bl man is v gd10 "o port] sd )
respect & puzzle;t1 8b ! bro!r's love is m gd4 ,! bro!r is loco 9 village10
he 3t9u$1 roll+ 8 eyes & circl+ 8 po9t] f+] >.d 8 temple1 8b 8 love makes
hm a g5tleman (! m.ta9s40

,s"eal ye>s af we 2gan \r trips1 we decid$ 6travel 6! remote hi<l&s (
,irian ,jaya1 a huge isl& ne> ,au/ralia4 ,a t]ritory ( ,9donesia1 ,irian
,jaya 0 9habit$ 0,yali tribesm51 all cannibals up until ! midsixties1 & ,i
_h he>d "o (! ,rockefell]s _h 4appe>$ "!1 mo/ likely w9d+ up 9 a /ew4 ,2f
fly+ ,cessna planes f ! la/ \tpo/1 ,wam5a1 ,m>k & ,i walk$ 96! m>ket4 ,m* (
x 0 ro($ 0a l>ge ?at*1 )! 9sides d>k 5 6make ,m>k wond] j :at ?+s w]e4 ,he
turn$ 6me & describ$ ! sc5e 9 a hu%$ t"o4 ,small d>k wom5 & m5 squatt$ 9 !
dirt sell+ p9eapples & bananas4 ,/rips ( dri$ pork hung f ! ceil+1 re/+
places = flies4 ,on "o ta# lay a s]ies ( tools3 axes & hoes ) wood5 h&les &
/"o blades1 ! items look$ ov] 0,9donesians &a few we/]n trekk]s4 ,wam5a 0 a
place ": two v di6]5t "ts 9 hi/ory met1 & ,i wond]$ if ? cla% ( cultures wd
b5efit ! local p or ultimately de/roy !m4 ,! m5 7 b>efoot1 ! pads ( _! feet
flat & z ?ick z ! soles ( \r %oes4 ,!y wore no?+ b l;g holl[ g\rds /rapp$
ov] _! p5ises4 ,! wom5 w5t top.s1 we>+ six-9* grass flaps1 plac$ ov] front
& re>4 ,= ?irty ye>s1 ,*ri/ian mis.n>ies _h be5 h>d at "w1 p]suad+ ! p ag/
cannibalism1 b al draw+ !m away f _! tradi;nal dress4 ,e t5? local1 9/1d (
grass skirt or p5is g\rd1 wore we/]n %orts & ;,t-%irts ) pictures ( ,mickey
,m\se & ,pepsi logos4 ,! ,9donesians 7 al h>d at "w sell+ ! ,yali's sacr$
l& 6giant =eign -panies 9t]e/$ 9 ripp+ old gr[? timb] f ! >ea & cutt+ !
tops (f ( m.ta9s 6extract copp]4

,\r small plane b\nc$ d[n on a grass air/rip on ! \tskirts (! small m.ta9
village ( ,kos]ack4 ,m>k's f/ ^ws \tside (! plane worri$ me4 8,w[1 ? is
fr1k+ me \4 ,!y're all />+ at u & !y don't look v frly4 ,holy %it4 ,? cd 2
x4 ,maybe we only ?9k ? is a family vac,n1 b re,y we're ! ma9 c\rse40 ,9 !
village1 we 7 greet$ 0! *ief1 :o wore a ?ree-foot p5is g\rd1 m* l;g] ?an
any"o else's4 ,t set (f an 5d.s /r+ ( g\rd jokes f ,m>k t la/$ ! 5tire
trip4 8,hey ,]ik1 c>e;l1 t ll dude 2h y\'s try+ 6poke y ) 8 g\rd40

8,]ik1 ? guy's g\rd's s l;g1 x's dangl+ ov] ! campfire40

,he ev5 nick"nd \r port]s1 ,gordy1 ,gordon1 & ,gordo1 ac 6! l5g? ( _!
g\rds4

,=! next two weeks we cross$ ! hi< ra9 =e/1 ov] ru%+ riv]s on fall5
tree-limb bridges1 & desc5d$ /eep cli6s on hundr$-foot rickety trellises
us$ 0! ,yali4 ,:5 ! pa? 0 easy1 ,m>k wd say1 8,easy cruis] ah1d z f> z ,i c
see10 & ,i'd =get 3c5trat+ =a :ile & we'd j am# al;g4

8,s1 if ^! p decid$ 62come cannibals ag10 ,i ask$ ,m>k1 8:o \ ( \r family
wd !y cat* f/80

,at "s e>li] po9t1 ,m>k m/ h tak5 "t 6pond] ? v subject1 2c1 ) no hesit,n1
he laun*$ "r in4 8,y'd def9itely g f/4 ,!y'd cat* y 9 ab two seconds1 y
/um#-bumbl+ al;g4 ,dad wdn't la/ m* l;g] ?an y1 bum#-clo4+ al;g4 ,!y'd cat*
hm 9 ab five seconds4 ,next1 ,$di4 ,he's too big & muscley 6run v fa/4
,he'd we> \ qk4 ,i'd give hm ab t5 seconds4 ,& me ''' well1 ,i'd probably
make x4 ,$di'd fe$ ! :ole village =a mon?1 & t'd give me "t 6haul ass4 ,i'd
hide 9 trees1 live (f ! l&4 ,x wd only 2 a matt] ( "t 2f ,i'd 2come ! l1d]
(! tribe1 2c ,i've got ! bi7e/ g\rd40

,"o "d we _h be5 travel+ ov] a roll+ trail on : ! topsoil _h be5 wa%$ away
0! spr+ ra9s4 ,! trail n[ 3si/$ ( expos$ roots ) radic,y di6]5t %apes &
sizes1 jutt+ \ at di6]5t angles1 all slipp]y ) ra94 ,at l1/ tw5ty "ts an
h\r1 ,i wd take a /ep & slip s"eal feet "? ! net"w ( roots1 l&+ on ! unev5
=e/ floor or squi%+ knee deep 9 mud4 ,only o3a.n,y wd ,i l& squ>ely on my
feet4 ,usu,y1 my twi/+ flail+ body1 try+ desp]ately 6recov]1 wd cra% d[n1
p]h a foot t\*+ f/ b !n knees & %9s1 & "s"ts elb[s4 ,i 0 scrap$ & ga%$ f
ankles 6?i<s1 & my >ms w]5't m* bett]4 ,at mo;ts l ^!1 & ^! 7 mo/ mo;ts 9 !
m.ta9s1 ,i hat$ hik+4 ,i cdn't imag9e any?+ worse or m di6icult4 ,i 0 mo/ly
mad at myf = agree+ 6-e on ! trip 9 ! f/ place4 ,af hik+ all "d1 ,i 0 sure
if ,i cd see1 ,i probably cd h look$ back & se5 ": ,i _h left f t morn+4 ,=
o!rs1 ? 0 a vac,n1 b = me x 0 mis]a#1 un=giv+ labor4 ,! hunt]s we 5c.t]$
al;g ! way1 :o ran acr %>p rocks 9 _! b>e feet & climb$ sev5ty-five-foot
trees z qkly z a pan!r1 m/ h puzzl$ ov] ? "y bl =eign] clumsily /umbl+ &
cra%+ d[n ! r\< trail4 ,:5 ,i'd he> !m ne>by1 ,i'd =ce myf 6smile & hide my
mis]y4

,late 9 ! afn1 )\t too m* progress1 ,i ask$ ,m>k1 :o 0 try+ 6guide me "? !
impossi# maze ( roots & mud1 8,is x re,y h>d 6guide me80

,m>k 0 alm t5 ye>s old] ?an me4 ,he [n$ an aquatic lake-scap+ busi;s 9
,orl&o1 ,florida1 : m1nt frequ5t twelve-h\r "ds ( back-br1k+ "w1 /&+ wai/
deep 9 murky lakes & ret5;n ponds1 haul+ away huge loads ( import$ plant
life c>e.sly set free 96! lake sy/em & n[ *ok+ (f native species4 8,i cd d
? all "d l;g10 he repli$4 8,-p>$ 6haul+ a ?\s& p.ds ( ,maluka trees1 guid+
y\'s a breeze4 ,actu,y1 wait a m9ute4 ,:at ! hell am ,i say+8 ''' ,i h d"o
? all "d l;g1 & ,i did x all "d ye/]"d too1 &! "d 2f4 ,t's x4 ,i'm dit*+ yr
sorry ass40 ,8 voice revv$ 96hi< anim,n z he %ook my %\ld]s r\<ly4

,!n z we /ru7l$ sil5tly =w>d1 ,i s5s$ ,m>k 0 9 deep ?"\4 ,s(tly1 ,m>k sd1
8,y "k1 ,]ik1 if "! 0 "s k9d ( op],n 6get yr si<t back1 ,i swe> 6,god1 ,i'd
give y "o ( my eyes4 ,i wdn't ?9k twice4 ,!n1 ,i'd h "o & y'd h "o4 ,we'd
walk side 0side4 ,y'd *eck \ ! top.s babes on ! "r1 & ,i'd *eck 'em \ on !
left4 ,b1 if !y're cute1 ,i get f/ dibs40 ,i knew ,m>k m1nt :at he sd1 on
bo? c.ts4

,an h\r lat] ,m>k & ,i r1liz$ at \r pres5t sl[ pace1 we wd n make x 96camp
2f d>k4 ,m>k ask$ \r guide1 ,rudy1 8,any pro#m ) hik+ 9 ! d>k80

8,pan!rs hunt at ni<t10 he respond$4 8,i w help40 ,he blew 96a horn &! deep
s.d e*o$ "? ! jungle4 ,soon1 ,yali port]s 7 runn+ up ! trail t[>d u4 ,i
felt l ,i 0 9 a ,t>zan movie4 ,!y took \ knives & 2gan cutt+ d[n small
bamboo trees & la%+ l>ge elephant l1ves & v9es "? !m4 ,2f l;g1 !y _h erect$
a make%ift hammock4 8,!y want me 6get 9 t ?+80 ,i lau<$ 9 %ock4 8,!y mi<t
drop me40 ,rudy translat$ my 3c]n &a ,yali repli$1 8,he w 2 easy 6c>ry4 ,he
is m* li<t] ?an a l>ge sack ( yams40

,z ! ,yali t1m lift$ me up on _! %\ld]s & 2gan 6*att] back & =? 9 hi<1 qk
voices1 ,m>k sd1 8,]ik1 ,i'm s]i\s4 ,^! >5't \r guides4 ,i don't recognize
a s+le "o40

8,-e on1 ,m>k10 ,i pl1d$1 8,i "k y're j jok+ >.d40

8,^! guys >e total /rang]s10 ,m>k 9si/$1 all[+ 8 voice 6gr[ frantic4 8,i
?9k ? 0 all a ploy 6get y ti$ up40

8,%ut up1 j]k60 ,i %ot back1 try+ unsu3ess;lly 6free my >ms f ! ti<tly la%$
v9es4

,z ! ,yali 2gan runn+ ) me on _! %\ld]s1 ,m>k call$ \ 2h me1 8,z l;g z ,i
live1 ,i won't =get y1 ll bro!r40 ,f my hammock1 ,i cd feel we 7 fly+ at
br1kneck spe$ ov] ! tr1*]\s trail4 ,_m "ts ,i he>d cra%+1 foam+ riv]s *urn+
2l & knew !y 7 c>ry+ me ov] slipp]y tree-limb bridges4 ,pl1se don't let !m
drop me1 especi,y 9 ! crocodile-9fe/$ riv]1 ,i ?"\4 ,m>k scamp]$ al;g 2h u1
b>ely keep+ up1 snapp+ pictures & s++ a p>ody to 8,%e'll 2 ,-+ ,r.d !
,m.ta940 ,8 v].n w5t1 8,!y'll 2 c>ry+ hm ov] ! m.ta91 :5 he -es40

,a few "ds lat]1 z we approa*$ ,anganook1 horns bl>$ & villag]s ran h\rs f
f> 4tant places 6ga!r "u a l>ge ?at*$ ro(1 two hundr$ p 9 all4 ,! wom5 sat
on "o side1 clad only 9 _! grass 8flaps02 _! *n 2s !m1 bellies ext5d$
0"un\ri%;t & 41se4 ,! m5 sat opposite1 2deck$ only 9 p5is g\rds1 "s a m]e
ei<t 9*es b o!rs a curv$1 r exotic ?ree feet4 ,my family1 ,rudy1 & ,i sat v
quietly 9 ! back1 we>+ %orts & hik+ boots1 & n "k+ at all :at 6expect4 ,a
hi< prie/1 brilliantly 2dazzl$ 9 body pa9t &) color;l bird f1!rs 9 8 hair1
spoke 9 local dialect :ile ,rudy translat$3 8,td we sit pr\dly )a bl man :o
has -e _m "ds acr \r m.ta9s4 ,we wd n"e h ?"\ s* a j\rney 0 possi#4 ,! bl p
( \r villages sit 9 _! huts & w1ve baskets4 ,maybe we h "s?+ 6le>n f ? bl
man4 ,maybe "! is a bett] way =! bl p (! ,yali40

,li/5+ 9t5tly 6! ^ws1 ,i r1liz$ t scrambl+ ov] b\ld] fields & sludg+ acr
glaci]s took on a grt] m1n+ ?an ,i _h orig9,y ?"\4 ,t al? ,i 0 bl1 &
probably wd 2 ="e1 ,i _h ! abil;y 6t1* ^? >.d me1 n 0my ^ws or my 9t5;ns1 b
0my ac;ns4 ,afws1 ,i smil$ %eepi%ly z ! village prie/ pres5t$ me ) an
honor>y p5is g\rd4 ,x 0 m* l;g] ?an ,i ne$$4
